Airstreams and compressor fridges?

goducks10 wrote:

n0arp wrote:
You get to choose between 12V and 120V when you order. Whichever you choose, you're stuck with. Our house bank is 48VDC and inverter always on, so we decided to go with 120V.

It's an easy DIY project, if you're handy.

We went with the conversion because we camp at high elevation, don't always level, know about the fire risks associated with (especially unlevel) absorption units, etc. And of course, we have enough solar/battery to comfortably opt for the consistency and other benefits of a compressor unit. That's something you have to account for, depending on how you camp.

I've since replaced the unit with a Haier 9.8 cu. ft. apartment fridge, which has the same exterior cabinet size but a lot more usable space inside, and uses roughly the same energy. With the conversion, you're stuck with the same usable space as the fridge you start with. A 7.5 cu. ft. Norcold vs 9.8 cu. ft fridge residential, and in our case, the space is important enough to justify the change.

According to the Haier safety instructions that fridge is not supposed to be installed in an enclosure.
http://pdf.lowes.com/useandcareguides/688057309156_use.pdf?_gl=1*1wc67qi*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE2MjcxMzU4NzMuQ2owS0NRanc5TzZIQmhDckFSSXNBRHg1cUNRamRTUG1MTlZuYjExLXVDQjljZjQ0OHZ5djZoS2p5dm5GRGVWUWJ0alBRZzZCdzV4TWQyWWFBbjZ1RUFMd193Y0I.*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE2MjcxMzU4NzMuQ2owS0NRanc5TzZIQmhDckFSSXNBRHg1cUNRamRTUG1MTlZuYjExLXVDQjljZjQ0OHZ5djZoS2p5dm5GRGVWUWJ0alBRZzZCdzV4TWQyWWFBbjZ1RUFMd193Y0I.
I've read so many instructions PDF's from 120V fridges and most all small (10 cu.ft and under) 120V home fridges don't make the cut for RV install.

It has plenty of space around it. The only place that it actually touches anything is the trim around the front fascia, and of course underneath. There is 6” of clearance up top (and a roof vent), nearly 2” on each side, plus plenty of space and vent at the back.

From the same manual you pointed out:
• The following are recommended clearances around the refrigerator:
Sides...............1” (25 mm) Top....................1" (25 mm) Back..................2" (50mm)

Most (small and otherwise) residential fridges are fine to retrofit. When the manual says not to enclose them, it just means don’t put them in a solid box that is flush all around.

n0arp wrote:
You get to choose between 12V and 120V when you order. Whichever you choose, you're stuck with. Our house bank is 48VDC and inverter always on, so we decided to go with 120V.

It's an easy DIY project, if you're handy.

We went with the conversion because we camp at high elevation, don't always level, know about the fire risks associated with (especially unlevel) absorption units, etc. And of course, we have enough solar/battery to comfortably opt for the consistency and other benefits of a compressor unit. That's something you have to account for, depending on how you camp.

I've since replaced the unit with a Haier 9.8 cu. ft. apartment fridge, which has the same exterior cabinet size but a lot more usable space inside, and uses roughly the same energy. With the conversion, you're stuck with the same usable space as the fridge you start with. A 7.5 cu. ft. Norcold vs 9.8 cu. ft fridge residential, and in our case, the space is important enough to justify the change.

According to the Haier safety instructions that fridge is not supposed to be installed in an enclosure.
http://pdf.lowes.com/useandcareguides/688057309156_use.pdf?_gl=1*1wc67qi*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE2MjcxMzU4NzMuQ2owS0NRanc5TzZIQmhDckFSSXNBRHg1cUNRamRTUG1MTlZuYjExLXVDQjljZjQ0OHZ5djZoS2p5dm5GRGVWUWJ0alBRZzZCdzV4TWQyWWFBbjZ1RUFMd193Y0I.*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE2MjcxMzU4NzMuQ2owS0NRanc5TzZIQmhDckFSSXNBRHg1cUNRamRTUG1MTlZuYjExLXVDQjljZjQ0OHZ5djZoS2p5dm5GRGVWUWJ0alBRZzZCdzV4TWQyWWFBbjZ1RUFMd193Y0I.
I've read so many instructions PDF's from 120V fridges and most all small (10 cu.ft and under) 120V home fridges don't make the cut for RV install.

Thanks for sharing this. Seems like it could be a viable option in the future.

You get to choose between 12V and 120V when you order. Whichever you choose, you're stuck with. Our house bank is 48VDC and inverter always on, so we decided to go with 120V.

It's an easy DIY project, if you're handy.

We went with the conversion because we camp at high elevation, don't always level, know about the fire risks associated with (especially unlevel) absorption units, etc. And of course, we have enough solar/battery to comfortably opt for the consistency and other benefits of a compressor unit. That's something you have to account for, depending on how you camp.

I've since replaced the unit with a Haier 9.8 cu. ft. apartment fridge, which has the same exterior cabinet size but a lot more usable space inside, and uses roughly the same energy. With the conversion, you're stuck with the same usable space as the fridge you start with. A 7.5 cu. ft. Norcold vs 9.8 cu. ft fridge residential, and in our case, the space is important enough to justify the change.

Also, did you still retain the 120v operation option or is it now strictly dc only?

Ok, was this a relatively easy dyi project? And what was your primary reason for switching over?

joe&julie81 wrote:
Can you tell me more about this conversion unit. I'm not familiar with this and how it's applied, or incorporated into an existing absorption refrigerator. Thanks

You remove the absorption unit and replace it with a compressor. You end up keeping the same cabinet.

https://jc-refrigeration.com/product-category/hvac/

Can you tell me more about this conversion unit. I'm not familiar with this and how it's applied, or incorporated into an existing absorption refrigerator. Thanks

joe&julie81 wrote:
Yes I will ask there too, thanks. Does anyone know the comparison of amp draw between the 2?

My Norcold N841 converted to the JCR HVAC unit used 1.0-1.3kWh/day, depending on ambient conditions.

Yes I will ask there too, thanks. Does anyone know the comparison of amp draw between the 2?