Forum Discussion

nmhuntr's avatar
nmhuntr
Explorer
Oct 04, 2020

Aluminum or fiberglass trailer

I currently have an aluminum side camper and have no issues with it. I am looking into trading and I am wondering what you see as the pros and cons of either aluminum sideline or fiberglass. My concern when I see fiberglass is a lot of them have ripples in them and I don’t know whey that would be. Also, I am only looking at used units.

Thanks
  • I believe that the floor plan is the first consideration. I would take whatever surrounds the interior that I liked the best.
  • Look for "azdel" backed fiberglas. Lance is one mfg.
    It is resin based, not wood.
  • theoldwizard1 wrote:
    nmhuntr wrote:
    ...what you see as the pros and cons of either aluminum sideline or fiberglass.

    Aluminum siding is less expensive and tends to use wood for most of the structural parts (studs) of the walls. The aluminum siding is attached directly to the studs. Water damage (from a leaking roof or windows) typically only show up on the inside. Rotten structural wood can be fairly easily repair, except for heavily rotted plywood floors. RVs made this way tend to be less expensive.


    Most people believe that the smooth fiberglass siding "looks nicer". It is heavier than aluminum siding, but they make up for it by using aluminum for the studs. Frequently (but not 100% of the time) they uses a lightweight non-organic (no wood fiber) sheathing between the aluminum studs and the outer fiberglass skin for rigidity and to provide a perfectly smooth surface for the fiberglass to adhere too. When there is "delamination" (the glue between the sheathing and the fiberglass skin has failed) it can be difficult to repair. The floors are still plywood so if they rot, it is they same difficulty to repair. RVs made this way tend to be more expensive.

    In both cases, the roof is the critical item in the design. You want an RV that does NOT have a perfectly FLAT roof. It need some pitch to help water drain. Typical "rubber" (EPDM) require some care when installing. There are many small things that can go wrong than can cause a leak. Proper maintenance for maximum durability includes wash twice a year and applying a UV protectant. (Of course storing out of the sun and rain is the best.)


    Framing and siding are unrelated. You can get wood or aluminum framing with aluminum or fiberglass siding. In fact many manufacturers provide the same unit with either siding option.

    Fiberglass looks really good when new but go wander a campground. By the time you get to 5yrs old, it's rare to find a fiberglass unit without some delamination. Also, you often see the framing mirroring thru the fiberglass.

    It's not uncommon for aluminum siding to look like new 20-30yrs later. One catch being if you are in an area with a lot of hail. Functionally, it will be fine with hail dents but it can look rough.
  • jdc1's avatar
    jdc1
    Explorer II
    theoldwizard1 wrote:
    jdc1 wrote:
    True fiberglass exterior....

    There are a few travel trailer that are "true" fiberglass. Built very much like a boat. The top half is built in one mold, the bottom in another. They are then "joined" together. Then they whole unit sits of a (typically) steel chassis.

    They get expensive very quick as the get larger, but they tend to last a very VERY long time with few if any leaks.


    Casita and Scamp come to mind.
  • nmhuntr wrote:
    ...what you see as the pros and cons of either aluminum sideline or fiberglass.

    Aluminum siding is less expensive and tends to use wood for most of the structural parts (studs) of the walls. The aluminum siding is attached directly to the studs. Water damage (from a leaking roof or windows) typically only show up on the inside. Rotten structural wood can be fairly easily repair, except for heavily rotted plywood floors. RVs made this way tend to be less expensive.


    Most people believe that the smooth fiberglass siding "looks nicer". It is heavier than aluminum siding, but they make up for it by using aluminum for the studs. Frequently (but not 100% of the time) they uses a lightweight non-organic (no wood fiber) sheathing between the aluminum studs and the outer fiberglass skin for rigidity and to provide a perfectly smooth surface for the fiberglass to adhere too. When there is "delamination" (the glue between the sheathing and the fiberglass skin has failed) it can be difficult to repair. The floors are still plywood so if they rot, it is they same difficulty to repair. RVs made this way tend to be more expensive.

    In both cases, the roof is the critical item in the design. You want an RV that does NOT have a perfectly FLAT roof. It need some pitch to help water drain. Typical "rubber" (EPDM) require some care when installing. There are many small things that can go wrong than can cause a leak. Proper maintenance for maximum durability includes wash twice a year and applying a UV protectant. (Of course storing out of the sun and rain is the best.)
  • jdc1 wrote:
    True fiberglass exterior....

    There are a few travel trailer that are "true" fiberglass. Built very much like a boat. The top half is built in one mold, the bottom in another. They are then "joined" together. Then they whole unit sits of a (typically) steel chassis.

    They get expensive very quick as the get larger, but they tend to last a very VERY long time with few if any leaks.
  • jdc1's avatar
    jdc1
    Explorer II
    True fiberglass exterior....Bigfoot truck camper.
  • NO fiberglass issues with my 2015 TT. Still shines too. Covered when in storage. Used units with documented roof maintenance?
  • Seon's avatar
    Seon
    Explorer II
    The ripples are the results from water damage and that section of fiberglass and luan backer. Delamination.