Another overload topic

Here is what the Dodge SRW (2006) looks like with the Energy Suspension blocks installed.



I think they are Energy Suspension 9.9109G 2-1/2". change G to R and they will be Red.

On that truck road stock height empty, but settled about 1-2" higher loaded. I put them on when I used to tow a 5er. They still were higher than level with Wolf Creek 840 loaded.

Wish I had a picture of them loaded, they really used to crush up pretty well.

But look at the trucks with factory air suspension. they ride level when loaded. I want my spring suspended truck to also ride level when fully loaded.

I simply fitted 4 bump stops to the bottom overload spring and that worked really well me.

I was told before I purchased my camper that my truck would handle it fine.

They told me all airbags would do is help with the sway which is not enough for me to even worry about.

If your truck is level with the camper I don't know why you would worry about overloads. It apparently isn't overloaded.

I would say go drive it before you make a decision. If it's stable, then run it.

I was going to suggest ES bump stops for Kayteg. They will compress to half the height of TL pads but will still be twice as thick as the stock ones.

tattoobob wrote:
I wonder if anyone has tried to fab some thicker stops using Hockey pucks, My 73 Chevy Caprice convertible I had, had 3 puck lift which lifts the body from the frame

Yes, people have used hockey pucks.

I use Energy Suspension bump stops to add a little more overload when I have air bags inflated. They are inexpensive and seem work fine. They obviously don't take up as much space as Torklift StableLoads.

I wonder if anyone has tried to fab some thicker stops using Hockey pucks, My 73 Chevy Caprice convertible I had, had 3 puck lift which lifts the body from the frame

I'm impressed with Ford engineers' ability to adapt the upper secondaries to modern use. Alex concocted this set up to haul his Lance 815 camper on his 2007, F-250: note the homemade block:


Here's my 2001 Dodge 2500 set up with 3 upper secondaries, and one helper spring in the main pack. You don't see the upper Stable Loads. This is the spring tension without the camper on.

As always, try it out as is and then assess whether you need more secondary capacity. If the pic above is your dry set up, without all your camping or traveling goods, chances are you will need more help. Just looking at the set up tells me you could use one more stock, upper secondary leaf. These do not come into play until you have a load. You will still have some suspension travel. The actual thick lower overload spring has virtually no flex and is just the last resort for your suspension to bottom out on without hyper extending the leaves. Anytime you 'fix' your overload spring to the rest of the pack (like with a lower StableLoad) you doom yourself to a very minimum of flex and a stiff ride. If you find you get too much sway, add a thicker anti sway bar but know that it's a two edged sword.
It's still nice to see a brand spanking new truck suspension with shiny black paint reflecting back some great trips to come.
jefe

Mine is level, and stock springs. I Plan on keeping it that way. If you want to lower the sway, buy a bigwig sway bar. They are designed to be a torsion spring that only reduces sway. It does not provide lift.

So that'a what it looks like underneath a brand new truck :)