Forum Discussion

Limoges_Camper's avatar
Sep 01, 2014

Another wat er damaged floor - 2006 Aerolite Cub BH23

We recently purchased a trailer that was supposed to be in near mint condition.
Once we brought it home, I noticed that the front steps were a bit springy on one side: sure enough, the floor was giving way.

These floors are made up of a cheap foam panel (not even using high density panels ... SMH...) sandwiched between 2 layers of of plywood. The top layer is 1/4" and the bottom l looks to be 1/8" with a layer of paper (yeah...) under it. There is some kind of a plastic methane under all of this.

Water got into the floor from what appears to be more than 1 spot: I'll deal with the causes.

I have removed almost all of the vinyl flooring: the front 60% of the trailer shows signs of water damage, staining, and was even wet in most areas (the stench when I lifted the vinyl!!!). Near the right (passenger side) wall, the top layer was completely rotten. I am removing some of that - resisting the urge to remove the complete layer.

The insulation is pretty well intact except for under the entrance where it cracked. Areas that had water-laden wood above it show staining inside the foam.

The bottom layer appears to be wet all over. I wonder of I should do anything about it.

My options as I see them:

Compete gut out where I replace everything from the bottom layer of plywood to the top layer, including upgrading the insulation to blue SM high density insulation and upgrading the top layer to 1/2". That would give me a stronger floor with better R-value.

An option I don't like is to just cover everything up and not bother with removing any of the damaged (mouldy) wood. I must get rid of the mould and make the trailer safe. I have seen where people have a spongy floor, and that is all they end up doing: isn't that bad for health reasons?

This is the plan that has the best compromise: remove the damaged portion of the top layer and replace with same material. Then add another layer of wood over the entire floor surface to add some strength. This would require me adding a support strip around the perimeter of the trailer (at key points only for weight control). I can add either another 1/4" or 1/2" layer. The problem becomes one of weight vs strength as each layer of 1/4" plywood weighs 25 lbs and 1/2" weighs 50 lbs.

So far I have removed the rotted wood on one side as well as a supporting 2 x 3 at the front step.

A note on the metal brackets supporting the front entrance: they need to be reinforced, and made longer so that they can properly hold the weight. I will post before and after pictures of this bracket. I highly recommend that owners with brackets like this perform this task sto get proper structural support.

So, any ideas/recommendations?

78 Replies

  • I feel for you, I had the exact same model Cub back in 2008, our was a 2000 model year. Needless to say the floor was exactly like yours, I fixed it the best I could and still had nothing but rot and mould issues with it. The floor actually collapsed on one side and we got 2500.00 on trade in towards our new at the time Dutchmen 295BHGS.

    I will never own a Hybrid again, as they seem to be plagued with leaking issues.

    Alex

    our POS:
  • Wow!.. What a mess! Sorry this happened to you and I hope you get it all fixed so you can enjoy the camper!

    Limoges_Camper wrote:
    We recently purchased a trailer that was supposed to be in near mint condition.

    The owner don't know what ''near mint'' condition means!... I'm sure he knew the camper had a leak!

    Limoges_Camper wrote:

    Once we brought it home, I noticed that the front steps were a bit springy on one side: sure enough, the floor was giving way.

    Did you even go inside the camper before you bought it ?.... Not sure how you missed that the first time ?

    Yeah, everyone seems to find all the problems once they get them home!

    Limoges_Camper wrote:

    So, any ideas/recommendations?

    Before buying your next camper, be ''sure'' to check it out good even if it takes you all day!

    Hope you get it fixed!
  • I have cleared away all the rotted wood on the passenger side of the trailer. Now I'm going to explore what is under the bench below the slide-out: I am crossing my fingers that I can get away with cleaning the affected areas and begin my covering.



    As far as completely rebuilding & re-engineering the floor: that is a little out of my comfort zone as far as materials are concerned, and I don't want to add too much weight. I know it is the ideal repair, but it would involve a complete gut-out of the trailer, and that is not in the cards.

    Main question: If I add wood on top to strengthen the whole assembly, should I go with another 1/4" or should I add 1/2" plywood?

    Also, what type of material should I use? Any water proofing/ mould inhibiting (etc...) stuff I can use? What is safe?

    I do want to add some more supports around the perimeter in order to have something to carry the weight of the new layer, as well as give me something other than 1/4" plywood and foam to screw into. I was thinking of getting some square aluminum tubing, and cut it into pieces, and screw those pieces onto the existing aluminum frame at key locations.

    this is the view from outside looking into the passenger side front access hatch:

  • Ouch. Unfortunately, you're not the first to have trouble with these Structural Integrated Panels used for flooring. The SIP's are ok for a wall but they don't stand up well to use in a flooring application. If you want to save the trailer for many years, I'd suggest to engineer your own flooring system using wood and adequate floor sheathing. It is a big job but leaving pieces of the existing, bad system, may bring more problems later.

    Good luck with the repairs.
  • Did you setup a "Public" folder in Dropbox? Otherwise, you cannot direct link to photos.



    Should be in this format: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/201045551/Forums/Media/1stBattleofBullRun.jpg





    This is what your URL photo link looks like:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/t756s4k8lc4x2jc/bracket 20repair.jpg




    This cannot be displayed in a forum post as it's not actually a photo link, but a webpage link. You can make a clickable link instead.






    You can try extracting the URL for each photo, but I wouldn't advise doing so as Dropbox could easily block the embedding of photos on their side at any time. Better to setup a Public folder.


    Or use this forum photo upload utility at bit.ly/photo-upload.
  • Anyone know why my images aren't showing up (I used the image tags, as well as entering the picture location in the text area)? Hmmm...

    Figured it out, but DropBox or this site is automatically rotating the image now... Sigh... :)
  • Here is what I have in mind for the bracket. Notice how it only has ONE bolt holding it up? This is an eye-opener showing just how careful one has to be in selecting RVs...

  • Here are some pictures:

    1) the outside. Looks amazing...



    2) Looking towards the front: Removed some of the vinyl flooring, and some of the top layer of plywood, as well as the table and benches. I screwed down a piece of plywood at the entrance to stop me from stepping through the floor. I'm gonna need more scrap plywood to support my weight during the repair.



    3) Disconnected the services to the Kitchen lower cabinet: plumbing, gas and took the important picture of the electrical connections so I'll know how to put it back together again. :)



    4) Kitchen lower cabinet removed! That took a while, and I saw some places where I will be adding dome support to the cabinet. They try to keep the weight and fabrication costs down, and it baffles me how flimsy cabinet are.



    5) I had to store my new weight distribution and sway control by Husky I JUST bought. Assembling that will have to wait. As you can see, the water damage continues all the way to the front of the trailer.



    6) This is the kitchen lower cabinet after it was removed. reinstalling it will be a task that will surely take a few hours. Lucky for me, I have the skill set and proper tools to do this properly (I'm a contractor in home repairs).


    7) You can see the layers involved here, as well as how the flooring is secured to the trailer frame. The broken piece of foam insulation is just there to help support the plywood I'm sitting on. Just above it in the picture, you can see the black plastic membrane, To the left you see the 1/8" thick plywood (why is there paper in between those layers? It acts like a sponge and turns to mush!). Then you see the foam insulation panels. You can see the bottom layer of the 1/4" plywood that was peeled off of it. This means that the glue holding the plywood together was weaker than the glue holding the plywood to the insulation...
    The flooring is secured to the frame by cutting out foam sections, and replacing them with chunks of 2 x 4, along with a 2 1/2" carriage bolt. Not sure how I feel about that. Any ideas for upgrades? I'll replace with new pieces.




    8) One of the flimsy brackets Aerolite used on the trailer. This was a blessing in disguise, and I would not have found out about the damage if this had been properly built for the application. Funny thing: this bracket was strong enough to hold up the front of the trailer because the floor above it that was overhanging the trailer frame was helping. Once the floor lost its structural strength, the bracket started to bend. In this picture, you can see that the bracket is no longer at 90 degrees. Here is what I will get done to these brackets: 1) beef up the lower portion so that I can secure it to the lower portion of the trailer frame. 2) add a diagonal component to transfer the load from the front of the bracket to the bottom of the frame. This way the floor above it will be properly secured, and the steps (which bolt in that spot where it is rusted) will be properly secured.



    I'll post more pictures later. Today (Labour Day - been doing this all weekend instead of camping like we wanted to do...) I will be looking at the other side of the trailer: the slide out and the water heater cabinet: I am hoping that the damage there is less than in the other areas, and I can get away with drying it out and killing the mould chemically (20 parts water, 10 parts bleach and one part detergent (to act as a surfactant - you scrub it in, wash off the residue, and then wear the moon suits and masks and vacuum everything very carefully.).