another wd question

Level the TT with the ball height. Level the truck (front axle load restoration) with the ball angle and number of links, or angle of WD bars.

Ford recommends returning the front axle load to half the amount that was lost. If the front rose 1" when dropping the tongue on the ball, you should adjust the WDH such that you have 1/2" rise. The rear will be whatever it is. 2" sounds right with a half inch rise in the front. If you return more weight to the front, the back will rise a bit more.

When in doubt, a trip to the scales might help. 3 passes, truck alone, truck with trailer w/o WD, truck with trailer w/ WD.

There in lies the problem. When you are some what handy and a guy to boot you can do anything and wont quit till you figure it out. Determined I am at trying to figure it out, plus helps in understanding how it all works as a unit.

I must have flipped the head assembly bracket ten times back when I was trying to do it myself. I second guessed everything and must have tried every angle under the sun. I'm pretty handy sometimes after a few youtube videos but setting up these hitches obviously takes some experience. I say to have it done professionally and be done with it.

I have watched quite a few videos and have read a lot on the above suggested link. The problem was I thought the only thing that tilting the ball was for leveling the WD bars to the frame of the trailer.

My first problem was that I was getting some proposing during travel, not a constant but it was happening. After evaluating the setup It looked to me that the trailer was sitting a little nose high. Adjusted the hitch by dropping it down one hole. That seemed to level the trailer off, measured about an inch high measuring the frame to the ground. The front measurements were within the half inch that the specs called for on the year and make of the truck, but the back still sags about 2 inches. By lowering the hitch one hole seems to have lowered the WD bars. a little lower than I would like, seems to bottom out now pulling it out the driveway and on our last trip the bars were scrapping the ground at the campground some while driving up and down hills in the campground. This was making me wonder if I should raise the hitch back to the original location and try adjusting the angle of the ball.

when I got my first WD hitch, what helped me a lot was watching the instructional youtube videos that etrailer.com has out there. Unfortunately, after devoting many hours to trying to get it perfect, I don't think I ever got it right. I paid Camping World to setup my current hitch and they did a phenomenal job. One look, and it was plain to see that everything was perfectly level with no sag in the rear of the truck. Well worth the money to know it's right...

Check out this thread on how to set up your hitch. Note that the "equal squat" recommendations no longer apply to modern trucks. There are quite a few links in that thread that explain why. I would advise reading all of them although that will take some time.
Barney

Angling the ball toward the trailer will put the chain ends of the bars nearer the ground. Thus you will pick them up further to attach the chains and achieve the desired "bars parallel to the frame" situation. This will shift more of the tongue weight to the front axle of the truck.

Measure the distance from the wheel opening in the fenders to ground on the truck before attaching the trailer. Then measure again after connecting the trailer and weight distribution bars. The truck should squat nearly equally at the front and rear fenders if set up correctly. If the rear squats a lot more than the front, the truck/trailer combination will "porpoise" or buck when towing. You can tell when the towing ride is acceptable.