Anti-seize on brake caliper bracket?
I just got done rebuilding the front-end on my 2002 Suburban (ball joints, pitman arm, etc.). The bolts that hold the brake caliper bracket to the knuckle always seem difficult to remove. This tim...
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am of the anti-seize and also know to back off the torque to offset via SAE30 spec for lubed vs dry
Also, need to understand the designer/engineer behind those torque requirements (recommendations)
Of course rotating engine component fasteners are lubed and should be tossed whenever they are loosened...the whole set. This includes head bolts
Then where the designer/engineer has that required/recommended torque is vs the fastener yield point. An example is the infamous Ford 6.0L ARP head bolts (part of the delete & fix so often mentioned)...they are torqued to 'yield'...meaning that they won't stretch anymore under the designed clamping force...but if there should be one or more instances exceeding that...it will go beyond that holding/clamping force and it will never have the same clamping force...even if you re-torque it
Most fastener applications has the designer/engineer decide how much
Some things are designed to be repaired, often and the designer/engineer should have taken that into their calculations.
Steel wheels has a coined area around the lug hole, while aluminum alloy wheels do NOT. Why alloy wheels need to be re-torqued after they have been loosened. I check 2 or 3 times. Then whether the lug nut is tapered or shouldered or washer'ed. makes a difference
Side note...if working on whatever down there on the suspension, replace fasteners with the same grade it came with. It has to do with how the designer/engineer expects things to break apart during a crash. Buddy's speed shop refused a customer who insisted on changing everything to grade 8...
Also, need to understand the designer/engineer behind those torque requirements (recommendations)
Of course rotating engine component fasteners are lubed and should be tossed whenever they are loosened...the whole set. This includes head bolts
Then where the designer/engineer has that required/recommended torque is vs the fastener yield point. An example is the infamous Ford 6.0L ARP head bolts (part of the delete & fix so often mentioned)...they are torqued to 'yield'...meaning that they won't stretch anymore under the designed clamping force...but if there should be one or more instances exceeding that...it will go beyond that holding/clamping force and it will never have the same clamping force...even if you re-torque it
Most fastener applications has the designer/engineer decide how much
Some things are designed to be repaired, often and the designer/engineer should have taken that into their calculations.
Steel wheels has a coined area around the lug hole, while aluminum alloy wheels do NOT. Why alloy wheels need to be re-torqued after they have been loosened. I check 2 or 3 times. Then whether the lug nut is tapered or shouldered or washer'ed. makes a difference
Side note...if working on whatever down there on the suspension, replace fasteners with the same grade it came with. It has to do with how the designer/engineer expects things to break apart during a crash. Buddy's speed shop refused a customer who insisted on changing everything to grade 8...
