I have a lot of movement with this heavy camper so I'm looking to replace the stock anti sway bar with a Road Master. Anyone out there know if they come with the end links or did you use the OE ones? And, anyone have an F350 that has installed one? I crawled under neath and it looks like I would have to have it on a lift to replace it. The camper is on and I was hoping to change it in the driveway. Thanks

I installed the Big Wig anti sway bar and everything came in the package. Never had to remove the camper off the truck. If need be just take some of the weight off the suspension by lowering the camper jacks make sure to loosen the tie downs first.

You're probably bumping up against your tire limits and have squishy sidewalls I know you are close to or over your axle rating too.

It's tough for even a very large camper to exceed the 4 combined rear tire load limits of a dually. Four 235/85-16E's, at dual ratings, have about 11,200 lbs combined load limit, if I remember right. If the truck weighs 4000 lbs empty on the rear axle, that's 7200 lbs of rear tire load capacity left to go...How much does that Host weigh??It is quite likely the truck may be over it's ~11,500 GVWR and ~8000 RGAWR. The rear tires should be fine though..

On the sway bar issue, you may not need a whole new sway bar. First, try replacing the factory soft rubber sway bar bushings with stiff polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension or Prothane, among others. I replaced the factory rubber bushings of both front and rear sway bars for both my F350's, as well as the front axle transverse tracking arm bushings with polyurethane and the bushings made a world of difference. I had no need to go to larger aftermarket bars, once I got good bushings in there. My F350SRW hauled 4000 lbs in the bed for 5 years straight, no sway to speak of, for a single rear wheel truck. Of course I had other mods too: super heavy duty rear spring packs, 285-E tires, heavy duty rear wheels and Bilsteins all around.

One more thought. If your rear springs are too light for the camper and you're relying on air bags to level the truck, that could be part of your squishy problem. The air bags don't help a truck to ride firm and stiff when the springs are already overmatched. You may need to upgrade to heavier duty leaf packs and/or add a leaf or 2 to the upper overloads.Torklift Stable Loads will help your overload leafs to come into play sooner, which helps firm up the loaded ride and reduce squat. If adding 2 extra leafs per side to overloads, you may need to cut down the Stable Loads' height a bit to keep them from coming into contact when the truck is empty.Heavier main leaf packs is the first step though, in your situation, in my opinion, if you're still running the factory stock main leaf packs. Visit SDTruckSpring.com for heavier spring packs for your truck.

Anti sway bar question | Good Sam Community

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Aug 01, 2016
Are you planning to change out your F350's axles/brakes/wheels/tires for those from an F450/550?
1handyhubby
Explorer
Jul 31, 2016
Update on the anti sway bar. To recap a little, I replaced the stock rear anti sway bar with a 1 1/2 Roadmaster. Decided to replace the end links a week later. After more research and reading comments from y'all I also replaced the front sway bar with an 1 1/2 Helwig (it was much cheaper than a Roadmaster for some reason) and I have to admit the ride is night and day. I took the camper out this weekend and am very pleased with the cornering now. I've spent a lot more money than I had planned on but in the end it's all about safety and comfort. My next mod will be larger brakes. Thanks again for sharing your experience and opinions.
HMS_Beagle
Explorer
Jul 16, 2016
It'll make a difference. I just took the one off my truck and put the stock one back on, noticed the difference immediately.
towpro
Explorer
Jul 16, 2016
They sure do make an improvement. Wait until you come around an off ramp empty, you have to remind yourself you're not in a sportscar :)
realter
Explorer
Jul 16, 2016
I will be interested in hearing if they improved anything.
1handyhubby
Explorer
Jul 16, 2016
Not yet. I'm also working in the basement and have things apart and loose. I'll report back after I button everything up and take it for a test drive.
Spearfisherman7
Explorer
Jul 16, 2016
1handyhubby wrote:
Ok, got it installed. I was able to thread it out (barely) without lifting the truck. Because of the design it went in much easier. Good thing because that sucker is heavy. I used the original end links. I may replace them at a later date. The bushings were cracked a little. The upper nuts are inside a rail and a bear to get to. Should be interesting. I attached a picture in case anyone was interested about the size difference. Thanks for all the input.

Did you have a chance to try it out yet to see if it helps?
1handyhubby
Explorer
Jul 15, 2016
Ok, got it installed. I was able to thread it out (barely) without lifting the truck. Because of the design it went in much easier. Good thing because that sucker is heavy. I used the original end links. I may replace them at a later date. The bushings were cracked a little. The upper nuts are inside a rail and a bear to get to. Should be interesting. I attached a picture in case anyone was interested about the size difference. Thanks for all the input.
stevenal
Nomad II
Jul 11, 2016
http://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdfinst/1139-165.pdf
Tom_Anderson
Explorer
Jul 11, 2016
1handyhubby wrote:
It's up and over the driveshaft and it looked like it would be difficult to weave it out without getting it up in the air a bit.

Worst case, you have to disconnect the driveshaft at the rear u-joint. Just make sure to securely block the wheels so the truck doesn't roll away (over you).