Anyone use Eternabond instead of Dicor?

I ordered the Tropi-cool roof coating. That's the final step after I finish recaulking/taping the roof.

My TC roof is only 4 years old but I went ahead and covered it with Henry's Tropic-Cool 887. It is available at Home Depot for $50 a gallon, which is all I needed to do my roof.

It is safe for both TPO and EDPM roofs. There are plenty of blogs and videos showing people doing the RV roofs. It was formulated for the intense heat and UV rays of the tropics (Florida) so it is tough stuff.

You can even paint over your clear skylights like the Heiki if you want to cool your interior down and protect it from UV rays forever. I went and rolled my bathroom skylight so I never have to replace it again. I get plenty of light from the bathroom fan vent.

Here is the RV flyer regarding the stuff: Tropi-Cool

pcoplin wrote:
I'm done with Dicor. It runs/flattens too much, and I'm not going to permanently tape anything. I'm going to try the Sikaflex on my next reseal.

I'm doing both. In fact, today I put down eternabond along the edge where the gutter meets the roof. Yesterday I re-caulked two exterior wall seams using Sikaflex.

I'm done with Dicor. It runs/flattens too much, and I'm not going to permanently tape anything. I'm going to try the Sikaflex on my next reseal.

I always overlap about 1'2".

STBRetired wrote:
I just did the perimeter where the roof meets the fiberglass and around 1 skylight.. I used 4" EternaBond and used 2 50' rolls. Have some left, but not a whole lot. Used 2 cans of acetone from the hardware store for cleaning and 1 can of EternaPrime for the area around the skylight.

OK I have more questions. How long were the strips you used for the long seams? Did you butt the strips up to each other or overlap them?

billyray50 wrote:
Just got done using Dicor Ultra seal primer with a 1 inch brush and Dicor ultra seal self leveling caulk on TCs TPO roof cabover seam and it came out ok but after 7 years getting tired of using Dicor. Anyone use Eternabond instead for vents and seams on roof? Pros and cons?

I've heard good and bad with EB. But I suspect the bad has something to do with improper prep/install. However, It seems REALLY difficult to remove and often damages the rubber roof when attempting to do so...so I hear.

Been doing a lot of reading on sealants and related stuff lately. It seems lap sealant is specifically peddled to the consumer to only last 2-3 years. So I have to ask...what do builders use for sealing windows, holes and other stuff that see the same sunlight and weather as RV's? They can't possibly reseal every 2-3 years.

This guy seems to know what he's talking about. I like the idea of "tooling" the sealant to get better adhesion. He claims you should get 15-20 years if done properly. He says you'll wonder why you ever used lap sealant after using Sika for the roof. He pretty much says what I always thought about "RV" marketed sealants and products in general. Don't spend too much money on sealants

I just recently used it for my front and rear seams and I should have done it years ago. I am now using it on my slideout awnings.I contacted the eternabond co.about using it on vinyl awning fabric and the told me, sure can and what to do. I replaced them last year due to fabric failing at the area exposed to the sun where they slide in the track on the wall. The rest of the awnings that were protected by the metal cover were still in great shape.There is 2 1/2 inches exposed and I covered that with a 3 inch wide strip of eternabond. It worked great and I should get a lot more years out of my awnings. This stuff is amazing.

Ah, hence the need for the heavy duty roller.
Thanks.

PO did not clean the roof or did not press the tape during application.
That made areas where tape was holding only on 1 edge, creating pocket on the other side, that pushed water into gaps.
Undetectable till you feel the roof soft.