Back from first long trip and need a couple things

An ordinary padlock will work on most couplers.

The sewer hose does not have to perfectly straight or sloped, with a fast dump, the stuff will follow OK, and when doing the final dump before leaving, lift the low spots to fully drain.

As far as the hose goes, as long as the outlet on the TT is say 6" or so or more above the CG sewer inlet, you can just dump as usual and then raise the hose up at your TT end a bit and "walk" it along the ground to get what's left in the hose out. Way faster and easier than setting up a hose support. We bought a Camco hose support in the very beginning but only used it a few times and haven't used it in years. Still have it in case a CG somewhere ever insists on using them. The majority of folks in CGs that I see don't use a sewer support.

We have two outlets on our TT and I regularly walk it to the 2nd one every time I dump and it can sometimes be full of effluent the entire length. Very easy to do. On the rare occasion that the CG sewer inlet is on the wrong side of a site , I end up needing to crawl partly under our TT so it won't drain back out. But you can buy a cap for the hose end if you want.

The sewer hose supports or ramps are simply a waste of time IMHO plus they take up valuable storage space. Some states or CGs require them to be used but I always see folks without them and no issues. They don't help the effluent flow any better.

I use a long shank master lock thru the coupler to ensure it stays latched,and also to prevent someone to fool with it when we stop for fuel or to eat.

I use a coupler lock similar to this when towing to ensure the coupler latch doesn't disengage while towing and a coupler lock like this when the trailer is parked on a campsite.

An alternative to using a stinky slinky and support is a waste macerator which will pump the waste even when there is a negative slope.

In theory the breakaway chains should be connected to the TV itself but like most others I simply snap them on to the hitch bracket which has holes in it for just that purpose. The key is to make sure the coupler is correctly latched to the hitch ball in the first place, in which case a total breakaway is highly unlikely. Simply put, I've got better things to worry about. ;)

I sanitize the fresh water tank in the spring with a bit of chorine, then fill the tank for the season and don't empty it fully until I winterize. Any water we ingest I bring from home or if on a long trip simply buy it as we go along.

do yourself a favor, trash the stinky slinky, get either a sewer solution or macerator pump instead. much cleaner/easier/etc.
fill the water tank with chlorinated water to begin with and no problem. add a small amount of chlorine if needed.
bumpy

Master lock makes a pin type lock that I picked up at Walmart. Do not ever tow without something in that little hole to secure the latch.

There are plastic ones and metal ones. Walmart again has those although they may not have the metal ones. A trailer supply store like Camping World will have them or look on line at a site like Etrailer.

It is said to not attach the breakaway switch cable to the hitch itself as the hitch could possibly fall off of the vehicle in a failure situation. That said there is no good spot on my truck to hook it to other than a hole on the receiver on the truck. That's where I hook mine. I put a carabiner through the loop on the cable and I use that to attach it.


Drain the tank is all I do for storing between trips. Chlorine is your friend in this situation. I sanitize my fresh tank in the spring and then I don't worry about it any more other than draining it. Same with the water heater. drain it. Just don't forget to refill it before you try to use it again.