Bal lock arm stabilizer bars?

jbjuices wrote:
Question on the Lippert system...on the back jacks, one side goes down first, hits the ground and then the other side goes down. It's brand new, so wondering if this should be fixed, or just how some systems work??

That is normal and how they work.

The electric stab. jacks should be run down only until they are snug and stable. TT frames/I-beams are designed to have a camber in them which means that they are a bit lower at the front and rear compared to where the axles are. Tightening them down more than needed can cause the frame to bend in the opposite direction causing racking of the superstructure above, twisting of the frame and possibly damage. As I mentioned previously, some frames flex a lot more than others - especially the ones with I-beams made from 3 pieces of sheet steel welded together.

Even our HD frame flexes more than I would have ever expected if I tighten the jacks any more than necessary. The dead bolt on our entry door would not work sometimes in first couple of years. Dealer claimed nothing wrong. Finally figured out the deadbolt and strike plate had insufficient clearance and by tightening the stab jacks even a little bit too much, it prevented the dead bolt from working. I filed some metal off the strike plate and that fixed it.

What could happen if a frame flexes too much? If your superstructure is aluminum-framed, welds can potentially fail like in the photo from a TT we used to have. Many TTs, esp. the ultralites, are built with the lightest, thinnest and least substantial materials to save weight and cost and you need to treat them accordingly.

I would never, ever own a TT with Lippert's auto-leveling Ground Control system. And if your frame ever breaks for any reason, it is always your fault, never Lippert's. Love their sales pitch "It can take up to an hour to get an RV level with manual jacks, chocks and wedges." It would be interesting to know how much these jacks wiggle around, esp. being oriented fore/aft.