Battery disconnect - can I still use my heat?

Great info! I found the manual and it didn't have a ton of info but was useful nonetheless.

I did an experiment, I ran my batteries down to about 12.1 V, then plugged it in. The voltage it was charging at was 13.36 volts. That tells me that mine doesn't push 14.4, ever. That probably explains why my rig doesn't charge quickly when connected to my generator. For that reason alone, it seems I should replace the converter. Agreed?
Thanks for the info!

Scott

ScottyP5947 wrote:
Good info ADK camper, thanks! Is there any way to see what mode the converter is operating at? My batteries never read higher than 13.1 V, as read by my solar panel controller.
I'll have to pay closer attention when I deplete my batteriesbatteries.
Thanks
Scott

Boost mode is 14.4 V, absorption mode is 13.6 V, and float mode is 13.2 V. A digital voltmeter connected directly to the battery terminals will give you the best way to determine what voltage is actually charging the battery. (You can often get a free digital meter at Harbor Freight with any purchase and a coupon from the Sunday paper) If your camper came with manuals from the appliance manufacturers, it will give you more details about the converter's operation. You can also probably find the manual on line.

Good info ADK camper, thanks! Is there any way to see what mode the converter is operating at? My batteries never read higher than 13.1 V, as read by my solar panel controller.
I'll have to pay closer attention when I deplete my batteriesbatteries.
Thanks
Scott

ScottyP5947 wrote:
Yup looks like I have a WF-8900 converter. They spec out to be a decent model that won't overcharge the battery according to the brochure.

Thanks
Scott

I too have a WFCO converter. It is designed to operate in one of three modes: boost, adsorption, or float depending on the automatically sensed charge state of the battery. BUT WFCO chargers are notorious for not operating properly. Mine always operates in adsorption mode regardless of the batterys state of charge. Because of this it takes a long time (days) to bring a 50% discharged battery up to a full charge and it tends to overcharge a full battery. If your charger operates in the same way it might be better to allow the converter to fully charge your battery and then disconnect it for a few weeks (assuming it's not being used) and then bring it up to a full charge and repeat the cycle every few weeks.

Yup looks like I have a WF-8900 converter. They spec out to be a decent model that won't overcharge the battery according to the brochure.

Thanks
Scott

patperry2766 wrote:
Man cave or potential dog house?

Ironically, that's the name of mine!

ScottyP5947 wrote:
Ok thanks, I'll take that advice too. Then I can judge what kind of converter I actually have.

Tell us just which converter you have and we can tell you whether the battery needs to be part of the circuit or not. As already mentioned any converter manufactured in at least the last 10 yrs can run your furnace just fine on it's own, it's only with much older converters which did require a battery to buffer the converter output that this would be a concern. These days that's not necessary.

Ok thanks, I'll take that advice too. Then I can judge what kind of converter I actually have.
Scott

Check carefully the manual for your convertor and/or owner's manual. On either our Sunline trailer (2002) or our Winnebago Minnie (2014), the owner's manual clearly stated that the convertor shouldn't be operated without a battery connected to the system. That seems to contrary to what others have stated, but I suggest at least checking you manual(s) or contact the manufacturer.