Forum Discussion

Kidoo's avatar
Kidoo
Explorer
Aug 26, 2013

Battery Isolator - How to connect?

Hi, I have a Ford F350 Diesel 2006 and my son has a Dodge Diesel 2000. We bought two Shure Power Isolator, one with 3 stud, one with 4 studs. We do not know how to connect them to charge the camper batteries.

Any help appreciated
Truck Campers

10 Replies

  • Kidoo's avatar
    Kidoo
    Explorer
    Aug 29, 2013
    AnEv942 wrote:
    Confused- do you have a Vanagon or Sprinter? Why are the instructions for those being referanced? Im also puzzled, if your unsure of application or which isolator goes where, how you ended up with what you have?
    While I agree with others simple constant duty solenoid better option for charging aux batteries- dont know what your actually trying to do. Though I use a solenoid on the T/C I've used an isolator in our 82 jeep for 15 years to isolate & maintain winch battery. Ive only lost one isolater. Ensure you understand how to rewire back to stock-(simply moving BATT wire back to alt/dissconnecting exciter wire) if/when isolator fails.
    Theres is a tech number in the instructions.

    My 01 f250 would use the Group 2, -alt has 2 wire plug AND battery lug- so requires the exciter wire or the 4 lug isolator. Last diagrame page 3-Cant say on your 06, I know less about Dodges.

    IF same: 2 wires on the plug AND large batt cable-just like the instruction diagram For 1998 & later..
    *Simply disconnect the large single wire from alt BATT and connect it to terminal #1 (left terminal of isolator.)DO NOT cut shorter in case it needs to be reconnectd to alt if isolator fails.
    *Run new wire (equal to or larger than the one moved or battery cable)from alt BATT lug to terminal "A" of isolator-
    *Run a wire from an ignition ON source to terminal "E"(ensure its not hot when key is in aux position)
    *Connect camper to terminal #2. Note whatever wire size you run to camper you also need to add that size ground wire back to truck.
    DO use the circut breakers.
    Good luck...


    Thanks, I will try that.
  • AnEv942's avatar
    AnEv942
    Nomad
    Aug 27, 2013
    Confused- do you have a Vanagon or Sprinter? Why are the instructions for those being referanced? Im also puzzled, if your unsure of application or which isolator goes where, how you ended up with what you have?
    While I agree with others simple constant duty solenoid better option for charging aux batteries- dont know what your actually trying to do. Though I use a solenoid on the T/C I've used an isolator in our 82 jeep for 15 years to isolate & maintain winch battery. Ive only lost one isolater. Ensure you understand how to rewire back to stock-(simply moving BATT wire back to alt/dissconnecting exciter wire) if/when isolator fails.
    Theres is a tech number in the instructions.

    My 01 f250 would use the Group 2, -alt has 2 wire plug AND battery lug- so requires the exciter wire or the 4 lug isolator. Last diagrame page 3-Cant say on your 06, I know less about Dodges.

    IF same: 2 wires on the plug AND large batt cable-just like the instruction diagram For 1998 & later..
    *Simply disconnect the large single wire from alt BATT and connect it to terminal #1 (left terminal of isolator.)DO NOT cut shorter in case it needs to be reconnectd to alt if isolator fails.
    *Run new wire (equal to or larger than the one moved or battery cable)from alt BATT lug to terminal "A" of isolator-
    *Run a wire from an ignition ON source to terminal "E"(ensure its not hot when key is in aux position)
    *Connect camper to terminal #2. Note whatever wire size you run to camper you also need to add that size ground wire back to truck.
    DO use the circut breakers.
    Good luck...
  • trail-explorer's avatar
    trail-explorer
    Explorer
    Aug 26, 2013
    All you should need to do is connect a wire from the alternator to the input side of the isolator and on one of the output terminals, connect to the camper charging circuit.
  • Kidoo's avatar
    Kidoo
    Explorer
    Aug 26, 2013
    I cannot return the isolator cause I bought it in Idaho RV supply and I am in Washington now, they do not seem to have store in the area.

    I just wonder if I can use the 3 stud on my Ford 2006 or on the Dodge 2000. The Dodge has a Bosh alternator and from the instructions, on Dodge you install a 3 stud, BUT on Dodge sprinter or Volks with a Bosh alternator there are different instruction, it is pretty hard to figure it out. I am pretty sure i need the 4 stud on my Ford.
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    Aug 26, 2013
    Hi Jeff,

    Solenoids only draw current when the engine is running, so they will not draw the house batteries down while you are camping. Mine draw 0.88 of an amp.

    The alternator "sees" the engine battery first. If it is well charged then the house batteries won't get much current. Beefing up the charging path with thicker wire will help.
  • Camper_Jeff___K's avatar
    Camper_Jeff___K
    Navigator
    Aug 26, 2013
    The Perfect Switch isolator has no V drop but is expensive.
    The simple constant duty relay works but at night with the lights on and under a big electrical load, it will in my experience drain your TC house batteries way down.
    The solution I plan to get is a smart solenoid that will sense when the start battery side voltage is dropping to low and will break the circuit.
    A manual switch with a volt meter to tell you when to break the TC circuit at the solenoid would suffice.
    I have had this unexpected situation happen a few times and it left me disappointed to find I was much lower on TC house charge than expected when pulling into a campground late at night.
    I guess the house batteries fool the alternator voltage regulator into thinking it has more battery voltage than it actually has so it doesn't kick into a higher voltage output condition.

    I'm sure there is a person or two around these parts that can explain this better than I.
  • deltabravo's avatar
    deltabravo
    Nomad
    Aug 26, 2013
    AN isolator has a voltage drop across it, which means the camper batteries will see less voltage than what the charging system on the truck puts out, meaning the batteries will never get close to being fully charged.

    I'd return the isolator and get a heavy duty solenoid or relay.
  • ScottG's avatar
    ScottG
    Nomad
    Aug 26, 2013
    You'd be better off with a constant duty relay like those that Napa sells for about $20.
    The Sure Power will die at the most inopportune time. If you insist on using it make sure you have a way to bypass it (while on the side of the road in the dark with your family on board and a travel trailer in tow and the headlights slowly going dim. Just saying.)

    Good luck,
    Scott

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