Best Roof Coating

I used this roof coating from Heng to coat my 28 ft trailer roof. I cut in the edges and the pipes and vents before rolling on two coats. Very easy to use. It wasn't quite as thick as I thought it might be.

JIMNLIN wrote:
I wouldn't draw any conclusion based on one persons bad experience with any product. Too many variables and in some cases 1000 times more folks have no issues with that product.

Years ago before rubber roof material most rv trailers came with mill finish aluminum roof material like my '84 26' fifth wheel rv trailer. Those old mill finish roofs were hot in the sun. The material came in huge rolls and was oily. This was before white aluminum material became available.
Not much in roof coatings was available back then other than Cool Seal White elastomeric. I applied 3 coats per instructions over the mill finish roof. WE kept the trailer 7 more years and no issues with it. The trailer was much cooler with the white roof. There were no leaks on the roof ...I just wanted a cooler camper and got it.

The oils on the roof material needed special attention for complete removal. I cycled the prep instruction three times. Heavy oils were used in the rolling and crimping mfg process.

Painting a vehicle or applying a roof coating takes special knowledge and mostly experience with prepping the job. The part I always hated.

Cool Seal is one of several products I have tried, each product has failed in one way or another. I also tried the big rage of bedliner of a few yrs back, it too failed and sadly when it failed it damaged the roofing underneath it, causing a tear which then proceeded to leak all winter long ruining my ceiling panels.

As I see it, each product is of dissimilar and incompatible material which has an expansion and contraction ratio that is also not compatible.

In other words, original roof expands/contracts at one rate, the fix in a can expands/contracts at a different rate. The two different rates then will stretch/shrink enough to eventually lead to the weaker material to fail.

The only way to 100% avoid dissimilar expansion/contraction rate is to use 100% the same material as the base OEM material. Oh, you might get close and lucky to find one that is similar enough for a short time but it will eventually fail.

My roof gets 100F more temps in the summer and can get weeks on end at -20F or a bit lower, that is a huge temperature swing and anything that is not compatible with that type of temp swings will fail.

I wouldn't draw any conclusion based on one persons bad experience with any product. Too many variables and in some cases 1000 times more folks have no issues with that product.

Years ago before rubber roof material most rv trailers came with mill finish aluminum roof material like my '84 26' fifth wheel rv trailer. Those old mill finish roofs were hot in the sun. The material came in huge rolls and was oily. This was before white aluminum material became available.
Not much in roof coatings was available back then other than Cool Seal White elastomeric. I applied 3 coats per instructions over the mill finish roof. WE kept the trailer 7 more years and no issues with it. The trailer was much cooler with the white roof. There were no leaks on the roof ...I just wanted a cooler camper and got it.

The oils on the roof material needed special attention for complete removal. I cycled the prep instruction three times. Heavy oils were used in the rolling and crimping mfg process.

Painting a vehicle or applying a roof coating takes special knowledge and mostly experience with prepping the job. The part I always hated.

I'll be coating my roof in a year or two. I will be looking real hard at Crazy Seal

https://crazyseal.com/advantages/?gclid=CjwKCAjw95yJBhAgEiwAmRrutJItNr3Oli1Y4r36rAp9R8jBgNBdvMEixobP5pW8I8rWMguKeYMKjxoCka4QAvD_BwE

BarneyS wrote:
I used the ProGuard product quite a few years ago on my Sunnybrook trailer and again a few years back. At first I was quite happy with it but it has rapidly deteriorated and I am now in the process of scheduling a complete tear off and replacement of the roof covering.
You can see my post from 2012, with pictures, here.
I am afraid I can no longer recommend the use of this product.
Barney

BarneyS, your experience echos my experience with liquid repairs in a can. They look great for a short time and then deteriorate/peal/wear off in a matter of a few yrs after application.

I used a different brand with similar results, looked great for two-three yrs, then it started to wear thin in spots to the point the old roof started showing through. What didn't wear thin started to peal off.

It isn't an issue with the brand of the product or how well you clean/prep the roof. It is more of the fact that with liquid applications the liquid must be thin enough to brush/roll/spray on to the roof. Those layers will never be as thick as the original surface layer the roof had from factory and will require multiple applications to build up multiple thin layers.

It just will not last as long as replacing the roof with a new membrane.

Liquid repairs are fine if you are planning to hide defects of the roof for selling to the next unsuspecting buyer , but if you are planning to keep more than a few yrs replacing the roof is the better route.

Once you start painting the roof, you will have to paint it again and again as the paint wears out.

In hindsight, I should have taken some pix of my roof as the liquid repairs deteriorated to show the forum, it is disheartening to go through the expense, hard work and time just to realize it only gives you a few good years and then you have to do it all over again.

Check out YouTube - there is a great video of a guy using eternabond for the top edge of the sidewall to the roof.

Im going to use eternabond on my camper do you completely cover the rubber trim which covers the screws on the side walls or just to the centre of it?

I used the ProGuard product quite a few years ago on my Sunnybrook trailer and again a few years back. At first I was quite happy with it but it has rapidly deteriorated and I am now in the process of scheduling a complete tear off and replacement of the roof covering.
You can see my post from 2012, with pictures, here.
I am afraid I can no longer recommend the use of this product.
Barney

Ok. I removed some Dicor last year from across the front seam. The new seal looks great and good thing I took off the old.

I don't have a lot on my roof but I will remove the old Dicor that is around the antenna and apply new.

Thanks again for the information. I'd go up on the roof and take some pics but its covered with ash from the forest fires we are having. If it clears up I will do it.

qtla9111 wrote:
Great write up John. Truly appreciated. I am wanting to use the Eternabond on the edges and other areas as you show in the picture.

On the roof accessories, is it necessary to use Dicor first and then later follow up with Eternabond or can I just put the Eternabond over the cleaned area?

Thanks again.

Your welcome and glad it helped.

A heads up on using Eternabond and Dicor under the eternabond (Ebond). Dicor gases off as it cures, and that gassing off period can be 2 to 3 weeks pending drying conditions. If you apply Ebond over uncured Dicor, the gassing off will create bubbles in the Ebond.

I wait 3 to 4 weeks for the gassing off and then Ebond. Longer is OK, just not shorter.

I'm note sure what context you are asking about

On the roof accessories, is it necessary to use Dicor first and then later follow up with Eternabond

I do not know the condition of your existing Dicor, or how old it has been on. Pictures really help in these cases. If Dicor is heavily cracked and crumbled, in my mind it shot. In that case, I would use a heat gun and all edges dulled putty knife and clean off the bad Dicor down to clean Dicor or none left, put new Dicor on, let it gas off, then Ebond. This gives you double sealing.

Also about cleaning, Ebond or even more Dicor, will not properly adhere to dirt filled old Dicor or roofing. If you have sound, old and dirt imbedded caulk, or the roof, it has to be totally cleaned before applying new Dicor or Ebond. Most times, soap and water will not clean heavy dirted up Dicor. For EPDM roofing, you need to use mineral spirts on a rag, clean with it, wipe it off as soon as it is clean, then follow with a high evaporating off cleaner wiped on a rag to take the oily reside left over by the mineral spirits. Do not let the mineral sprits soak on the caulk on rubber. I use Naphtha as my high evaporating off cleaner. Etneraclean works and some use denatured alcohol as the high evaporative cleaner. Technically denatured alcohol is not rated as a cleaner, it is stove fuel, but they still use it.

If that does not answer your question, explain more what your mean.

Hope this helps.

John