We have a 31ft TT and when fully set up, still get some trailer rocking when someone is walking through the trailer. I know we won't ever make it 100% solid, but I'm wondering what you found the best stabilization upgrades to be. We have manual stabilization jacks and I know they sell larger versions. I've also seen that a simple "X Chock" between the two tires can make a big difference. I'm just wondering if you guys have used one or both of these, and which you think is the best value for performance. Thanks!

Locking chocks will help reduce the rolling of the tires. There are two main versions, the X-chock which you tighten between the tires and the Onestep chock which places opposing chocks on the ground between the tires.I prefer the Onestep, because its an actual chock and prevents rolling. The X-chock isn't really a tire chock, you still need to block your tires. I think they both work reasonably well, its just personal preference.The next thing that you can add on is the JT's Strongarm system (not sure if there are other brands of this or not). They are triangular braces that attach to your frame and then come down to your stab jack and help reduce the motion that way. I haven't used these, but I've heard lots of good things about them.If you find you get a lot of up and down movement from your suspension, perhaps adding another set of jacks just ahead of your axle will help with that.The last suggestion is just to walk more gently. My kids and wife like to stomp when they walk. You can clearly feel more shaking and swaying when they walk. I've got friends that are heavier but walk more gently and the motion is quite reduced just from that.

JT strongarm (or similar) do make a huge difference.Particularly on longer trailers, you may actually get a little flex in the middle, We've had good luck with the simple aluminum stands right next to the axles (on the frame not the axles which wouldn't eliminate spring movement). When I get around to it, I'll probably add a set of installed stabilizers right behind the axles.

Unless you place the trailer on concrete blocks you will almost always get a bit of movement or shaking in the trailer. It sits on tires and a suspension so you cannot get all movement out but the use of the JT Strongarm stabilizer kit will stop most of it. Also use a good set of tire chocks (I use RotoChocks but they are not available anymore). There are other brands similar to the RotoChocks. I also, when staying in one place for a long time, like snowbirding in the winter, will put another set of support stands under the frame just in front of the axles.(Aluminum Jack supports)We have found that the use of the chocks, built in four corner stabilizers, and the additional jack stand supports makes our 30 foot long trailer quite solid except for the occasional shake when someone starts dancing in the living room. ;)

Cheap aluminums stack staabillier worked for me. But I have to use my SUV hydraulic jack to raise it up a little first so that the RV will firmly resting on it.I saw scissor jacks in all four corners of RVs. I think this will work very well too.

With a 31ft trailer, add a set of jacks near the center of the trailer which will be in front of the axles.That cuts the unsupported span in half and will go a long ways to reducing the shake, rattle and roll.Not to mention cheap fix.

Best stabilization upgrade(s)? | Good Sam Community

LVJJJ
Explorer
May 29, 2021
I use the sledge hammer method. Take two tire chalks (I know its chocks), drive them under the tires with a small sledge, problem solved. I tried those X things between the tires, but I kept forgetting about them when hooking up and heading out so ruined a couple. You can have them. A little trailer shake is part of the pleasures of trailer camping.
Campinfan
Explorer III
May 28, 2021
duplicate
Campinfan
Explorer III
May 28, 2021
I cannot remember the brand but I had a cheaper version of the JT Strongarms on2 of my trailers. I actually would put 2 on each stabilizer (90 degrees to each other) and they worked great. They were BAL 23216. I just looked them up.
Cocky_Camper
Explorer II
May 26, 2021
Some block or wood for under the jacks. The less you have to lower the jacks to the ground, the less movement you will feel. Also, make sure your tires are chocked good! Back on the back chock and hammer the front one under the tire. Several hours after the tires have cooled off, hit them again with the hammer to snug them up.
Kavoom
Explorer
May 23, 2021
One that kind of surprised me was when people installed suspension upgrades and in particular Sumo Springs. People put them on for one reason but often mention they improve the kinds of things you are noting.
allen8106
Explorer
May 20, 2021
TFin04 wrote:
We have a 31ft TT and when fully set up, still get some trailer rocking when someone is walking through the trailer.

I know we won't ever make it 100% solid, but I'm wondering what you found the best stabilization upgrades to be.

We have manual stabilization jacks and I know they sell larger versions.

I've also seen that a simple "X Chock" between the two tires can make a big difference.

I'm just wondering if you guys have used one or both of these, and which you think is the best value for performance.

Thanks!

JT Strongarms are the best stabilization upgrade I've done. because of this I no longer use a kingpin tripod.
Huntindog
Explorer
May 19, 2021
The JT strong arms work..... BUT, if you have the electric jacks where both legs come down with one switch and adjust to uneven ground automatically.... One should think it over.
That style of jack has a huge advantage in that it keeps even pressure on both legs. Even when settling into the ground. This makes it impossible to rack the frame causing the doors to stick etc.
Using JT strongarms with these jacks interferes with the equal pressure feature. So using them together on a surface which will allow settling could be a bad thing. Using them on a solid surface slab would work fine.
BackOfThePack
Explorer
May 14, 2021
LarryJM wrote:
The factory installed stabilizer jacks are simply in the wrong locations. I had four of the aluminum stack jacks that I kept from my last trailer and with some experimenting I found that if I put them about 6' in front and in back of the axles I didn't even need the factory ones which I removed and don't even have them on my trailer anymore. Now if you have a long trailer say 30' and have a major living area at the rear you might need something at that end, but all I have is a bedroom that is only used to sleep in so there is almost no walking around in the last 8' or so of my trailer.

I had used these jacks on my previous 26' TT for over 25 years for a rock solid setup so I just felt their use had to help the poor stabilization with what came on our new trailer. As far as the forward/back movement I've never had that since I make sure my little cheapo wheel chocks and well planted against both sides of the wheels on both sides of the trailer (4 chocks total).

IMHO the secret to stabilizing a trailer is the proper support locations and getting a good pressure on the jacks ... not lifting the trailer, but doing a similar procedure that even things like the Strong Arm site recommends with their product. I found the only way to do this was to use the tongue jack.

Larry
m

A long premium TT like mine came with (4) double stabilizers. Each end, and near the tandems. (8) points of contact. That, plus a set of inter-tire set wheel chocks. Tires and springs (body) have to be treated separately.

Shock absorber kit if you don’t have it, plus axle crossmembers (MOR/ryde) to keep leaf bushings unstressed. This trailer came with all of this.

The JT Strong-arm (Lippert) might be worthwhile. The aluminum A-frame jacks are great for long-term parking.
LarryJM
Explorer II
May 05, 2021
The factory installed stabilizer jacks are simply in the wrong locations. I had four of the aluminum stack jacks that I kept from my last trailer and with some experimenting I found that if I put them about 6' in front and in back of the axles I didn't even need the factory ones which I removed and don't even have them on my trailer anymore. Now if you have a long trailer say 30' and have a major living area at the rear you might need something at that end, but all I have is a bedroom that is only used to sleep in so there is almost no walking around in the last 8' or so of my trailer.

I had used these jacks on my previous 26' TT for over 25 years for a rock solid setup so I just felt their use had to help the poor stabilization with what came on our new trailer. As far as the forward/back movement I've never had that since I make sure my little cheapo wheel chocks and well planted against both sides of the wheels on both sides of the trailer (4 chocks total).

IMHO the secret to stabilizing a trailer is the proper support locations and getting a good pressure on the jacks ... not lifting the trailer, but doing a similar procedure that even things like the Strong Arm site recommends with their product. I found the only way to do this was to use the tongue jack.

Larry
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
May 05, 2021
I still think that it’s a bad idea, unless you have a really stout frame. The vast majority of trailers do not.
The BAL brochure basically says to use their scissor jack as a stabilizer, and not as a jack to prevent frame damage.
So, how much weight can be taken off the suspension? I don’t know and I’m not going to try and find out.
In my opinion, it’s a much better idea to add a stabilizer in the middle.