Bilstein vs Rancho

I put 9000's on my 3500 DRW like 4 years ago and they are a really good shock. Really shines when the truck is loaded heavy. My last two SRW Chevy 3500's ('15 and '18) have Ranchos as part of the Z71 package. I am not sure what series they are but they perform OK. I just put Bilstein 4600 on a Chevy S-10 ZR2. Have not completely rang the truck out but so far I really the Bilsteins in that application. I think either can perform .

+1 that Bills are a bit overrated. My next set will be Monomax.

I run Skyjacker Black Max myself, mono tune, oil filled no nitrogen pre-charge. Problem with nitrogen pre charge is you have to overcome the pre charge before the shock begins to move and my truck rides hard enough as it is.

I had Rancho's and blew the seals out.. I run off road with a lot of suspension articulation so the shocks work over their full range and the Ranch's blew their rod seals. If I was really flush, I would have went to remote resivor shocks like Fox but they are oh so expensive.

My opinion (only) is Bilstein shocks are over rated.

No issues with the Skyjacker's at all.

Lyle ,

This past Summer I upgraded to Bilstein 5100 and am very happy with the ride..

OK. Driving style is pretty sedate (except for yesterday when a blue-hair decided to pull out in front of me and I found out how well my truck actually handled a 2-lane excursion and back). I grew up in a truck and =prefer= a truck ride...when I'm in a truck. I run my E tires at about 60-65 for daily use and run right up to 80 when I'm towing. Not all that important for adjustability, at this point in my life. 30 years ago, probably, but then it was a lot easier for me to crawl under my truck and =do= sh!t to it. :B So, if I do go Bilstein, which model?

Lyle

They both offer lifetime guaranties but the Rancho 9000 series is adjustable and the Blistein 4600 is fixed. I went with the Rancho so I could control ride comfort whether loaded or empty. If I was always loaded, I would have chosen the less expensive Blistein.

Very subjective and personal to how you drive, where you drive, what you drive, etc

If 'ride quality' is high on your have to have list, then the herd (middle of that bell curve) recommendations would suit best. Many consider OEM just fine and some up a bit into higher dampening rates

If 'performance' is high on your have to have list, then the higher end towards performance shocks would suit best. Much higher dampening rates (both compression and expansion rates...along with more aggressive valving on the more expensive). Almost all these days are pressurized, but not needed unless you drive HARD

See many go with 'ride quality' and then install rear anti-lean bars (anti sway...not to be confused with anti sway hitch systems), which then reduce 'ride quality'...because the amount of lean is more common with lower dampening rate shocks

It can get technical, but not for the general public...just find someone who drives like you do, where you do, what you do, etc and then their recommendation more fitting to 'your driving'.

An example on that...I drive HARD and AGGRESSIVELY most all the time empty...not so much towing and am conservative up to a point.

So for me...Bilstein's can't keep up with my driving style....Rancho's kinda sorta...current KYB MonMax's can, but still prefer Edelbrock IAS Mono Tube's...but that is my preferences and know few out there on this forum would like'm

Also, tire class and what you air them up to in PSI vs sidewall max makes a huge difference, as tires are part of the dampening system. Rim width vs that tire size chart's recommendation likewise makes a difference (sidewall bend-back, strength, stiffness, etc). Go to the narrowest recommended rim width for your tire and there will be more sidewall bend-back...therefore better ride quality. Widest rim from the chart will have less sidewall bend-back, therefore less ride quality