Bolt on shocks or cushioned equalizers for travel trailer?

I had a little motorcycle trailer with leaf springs and it had shocks on it. This kept it from bouncing, and especially bouncing like a tow dolly when no bikes were on it.
There is no down-side from having shocks.
Trailers typically do not have shocks because there is nobody riding in the the trailer to complain about the ride quality of not having shocks.
The trailer will handle better with shocks because it will ride smoother, same as your car or truck.

Now, for the question of which is best, the real topic, I do not have an answer.

I had both Trail Air Equalizer center links and bolt on shock absorbers. The reason to do this is not for "ride and handling"...the purpose of these mods is not to make the TT tow better.

What it DOES do is give the TT and its contents a better ride. Living here in NY and having to tow through NYC we would get to PA and find cabinet doors open and stuff everywhere. The bad roads were literally beating the TT to death. Aside from damage to contents, it stresses joints, cabinetry, etc.

Our TT came from the factory with the Trail Air equalizer, but installing the shocks made a huge difference. Everything in the TT had a much better ride, cabinets stayed closed and stuff stayed put.

I put lippert shock kit on our 32’ 5er and made a very noticeable change in ride.

carringb wrote:
I'm 100% with Dodge guy....

The EZ Flex do eliminate any road shock that previously was felt through the trailer hitch. It wasn't uncomfortable before, but it's gone now. The main reason I did it was for washboard roads, which would make screws back out all over the trailer. It fixed that problem. More important, my stock spring shackles were worn to the point only 1/8" of material was left. It was ready to fail at any moment. The EZ Flex hardware is simple better.

My trailer came with shocks from the factory. Shocks don't make a ride "smoother". They dampen rebound, or bounce. They work for that. It's part of the off-road package that Northwoods includes on all their chassis, including ORV trailers.

So for me, I won't own another trailer without both.

The shock kit was next for me, but we decided to trade our TT in and get the MH. I didn't feel like I needed the shocks, it was just an upgrade I wanted to do. I had the EX Flex and wetbolts for approx 9 years. The Dexter stuff was worlds better in quality than the garbage the frame manuf installed.

nwoodco1 wrote:
Which will be best long term? Curious what is best for the trailer and handling while towing.

Two simple questions, but need to understand the context of your need.

If you plan on keeping your camper a long time, meaning lots of years, 10 plus, then,

Shocks and the rubber equalizer both will help the camper last longer when towed a lot of miles.

The shocks act on different things then the rubber equalizer.

The shocks take out the excess flexing of the camper on every bump big or small you go over. The entire camper structure flexes, main steel frame, siding, the entire camper. If you want to know a data point on this, my 32 ft camper would flex and oscillate a full 6 up and down flex cycles for every medium sized bump on the original suspension. After adding the shocks, that flexing went from 6 full cycles to 1. Yes that drastic.

When mounting the shocks, they need to be mounted correctly in relation to the suspension movement. I have seen many OEM installed shocks where the shocks were more close to horizontal doing little to no dampening benefit. They need to be more vertical with some angle to react to the suspension. Just look at the back of your tow vehicle on how they are mounted.

This thread of how I mounted mine, may help. I went with Monroe shocks and made my own brackets. Back then, the mounting brackets were not available. Today, they are many shock brands selling mounting kits. Adding Shock Absorbers - Sunline SR model

The rubber equalizer, this also helps, but deals with the instantaneous hard shock of the bump into the camper frame, wheel bearings and tires. I have used the Dexter EZ Flex and the Trail-Aire equalizer. I also upgraded to bronze bushings with wet bolts and heavy duty shackles. A very well worth it upgrade.

The standard suspension with nylon bushings, rigid equalizer and 1/4" thin shackles only last between 8,000 to 10,000 miles if not changed or upgraded. The spring pins start grinding into the springs or equalizer starting to wallow out all the pivot points and the spring eyes. If the wear is let go long enough, the wear on the shackles will cause failure, and leave you on the side of the road.

As to handling, need more context on what you are trying to improve before we go off in a different direction with answers. Do you have a handling issue now? if so, what is the issue, explain the best you can, and tell us the camper model, year, brand and the truck you are towing it with.

Hope this helps

John

Yes, I also believe that the upgrades are noticeable....

HUGE difference from a STOCK riding trailer to one with upgraded suspension, EVEN bigger improvement when going to the Morryde IS..

Wet Bolts (when properly maintained) are also a good addition over the stock bolts...

Next, were gonna say that there is no noticeable difference between old drum style brakes and disk brakes....

Sounds like someone who has NOT tried BOTH ...

The times are changing in the RV world.. SOME of the improvements are not just lipstick on a pig, they are the real deal..

I'm 100% with Dodge guy....

The EZ Flex do eliminate any road shock that previously was felt through the trailer hitch. It wasn't uncomfortable before, but it's gone now. The main reason I did it was for washboard roads, which would make screws back out all over the trailer. It fixed that problem. More important, my stock spring shackles were worn to the point only 1/8" of material was left. It was ready to fail at any moment. The EZ Flex hardware is simple better.

My trailer came with shocks from the factory. Shocks don't make a ride "smoother". They dampen rebound, or bounce. They work for that. It's part of the off-road package that Northwoods includes on all their chassis, including ORV trailers.

So for me, I won't own another trailer without both.

Gdetrailer wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
I replaced my equalizers with the Dexter EZ Flex kit along with bronze bushing and wet bolts. One of the best mods/repairs I did to my trailer. The old suspension was always harsh. You could feel Avery crack in the road transfer to the TV. After I did the kit I didn't feel anything transfer back to the TV. Bridge expansion joints were just soaked up. The trailer even behaved much differently. No more loose feeling trailer suspension. The nylon bushings were worn out, but the new EX Flex equalizers were a huge inmorovemnt. If I ever go back to a trailer I will definitely install the same kit.

You NEED a "better" tow vehicle if you can "feel every bridge expansion joint", not a slapped on aftermarket "fix".

Yes, at one time when I first found this forum I got caught up in the hype of trailer suspension "upgrades" and did a lot of research.. Oh the money I found I could spend :E on supposed "fixes"..

First, there was the trailer tires should be balanced for more smoothness.. So I spent extra money on getting them balanced much to the delight of the tire shop (they had funny looks on their face but gladly took the money)..

Result.. NO DIFFERENCE IN RIDE OR HANDLING.

Trailer handled and felt fine before I whipped out an extra $10 per tire, handled and felt the same after balancing.. I was $40 poorer and a bit wisened up..

Strike 1

So, then I read about shocks..

Yeah, the wisdom I gained from the tire balancing debacle smashed a 2x4 across my head to waken me up that the trailer handles and feels OK (like a trailer) as is and with the cost of conversion looking pretty ugly I stepped back and reasoned that even IF they could change much of the handling it would be so far back the trailer tongue that it wasn't worth handing boat loads of money over to find out that it didn't change anything.. So, I SAVED myself a lot of money and hassle and didn't bother.

Strike 2

Wet bolts.. Yeah, I realized early on that installing a bolt that has a HOLE DRILLED THROUGH the center is a disaster just waiting to happen.. You HAVE compromised the strength of said bolt when you hog out the center of said bolt.. Yes, there HAS been folks who HAVE discovered the downfall of less bolt strength with wet bolts when they suddenly without warning shear out..

I will take ALL of the strength from my suspension parts as possible and you ONLY get that from having 100% of that bolt..

Strike 3

Game over..

Cushioned equalizers.. Yeah, unless they have considerably MORE material than the OEM standard issue there is a good chance you have less strength and now you are putting in rubber or nylon plastic that can and will deteriorate..

Overtime suckers bet on more aftermarket gadgets that are not needed if you have a decent tow vehicle.

And yes, I HAVE towed with a lesser tow vehicle, handling and stability was always living on the edge.. I learned that you are much better off to not take the max of the tow vehicles capabilities and start with a bit more robust platform.. Much cheaper over all when you do not have to buy and install all kind of after market fixes..

All the fixes above together you can spend $3k easily and never notice a difference.. $3K can pay for the extra upgrade from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton..

Im not going to argue with you, because you are just wanting to be argumentative. Im not going there.

I towed with an Excursion so I had plenty of tow vehicle. If you don't want to inspect your suspension fine. I know what can and will fail.

Yes the EZ Flex equalizers do make a difference. the wet bolts are a great investment if you like to properly maintain a trailer suspension......when was the last time you inspected the spring bushings?

Balanced tires over the life of the tire is better for them and the wheel bearings!

I guess if you tow a poorly maintined trailer with a vehicle that is double the capability then its safe to do so!

OK, like I said im not going to argue with someone that doesn't know the physics involved.

dodge guy wrote:
I replaced my equalizers with the Dexter EZ Flex kit along with bronze bushing and wet bolts. One of the best mods/repairs I did to my trailer. The old suspension was always harsh. You could feel Avery crack in the road transfer to the TV. After I did the kit I didn't feel anything transfer back to the TV. Bridge expansion joints were just soaked up. The trailer even behaved much differently. No more loose feeling trailer suspension. The nylon bushings were worn out, but the new EX Flex equalizers were a huge inmorovemnt. If I ever go back to a trailer I will definitely install the same kit.

You NEED a "better" tow vehicle if you can "feel every bridge expansion joint", not a slapped on aftermarket "fix".

Yes, at one time when I first found this forum I got caught up in the hype of trailer suspension "upgrades" and did a lot of research.. Oh the money I found I could spend :E on supposed "fixes"..

First, there was the trailer tires should be balanced for more smoothness.. So I spent extra money on getting them balanced much to the delight of the tire shop (they had funny looks on their face but gladly took the money)..

Result.. NO DIFFERENCE IN RIDE OR HANDLING.

Trailer handled and felt fine before I whipped out an extra $10 per tire, handled and felt the same after balancing.. I was $40 poorer and a bit wisened up..

Strike 1

So, then I read about shocks..

Yeah, the wisdom I gained from the tire balancing debacle smashed a 2x4 across my head to waken me up that the trailer handles and feels OK (like a trailer) as is and with the cost of conversion looking pretty ugly I stepped back and reasoned that even IF they could change much of the handling it would be so far back the trailer tongue that it wasn't worth handing boat loads of money over to find out that it didn't change anything.. So, I SAVED myself a lot of money and hassle and didn't bother.

Strike 2

Wet bolts.. Yeah, I realized early on that installing a bolt that has a HOLE DRILLED THROUGH the center is a disaster just waiting to happen.. You HAVE compromised the strength of said bolt when you hog out the center of said bolt.. Yes, there HAS been folks who HAVE discovered the downfall of less bolt strength with wet bolts when they suddenly without warning shear out..

I will take ALL of the strength from my suspension parts as possible and you ONLY get that from having 100% of that bolt..

Strike 3

Game over..

Cushioned equalizers.. Yeah, unless they have considerably MORE material than the OEM standard issue there is a good chance you have less strength and now you are putting in rubber or nylon plastic that can and will deteriorate..

Overtime suckers bet on more aftermarket gadgets that are not needed if you have a decent tow vehicle.

And yes, I HAVE towed with a lesser tow vehicle, handling and stability was always living on the edge.. I learned that you are much better off to not take the max of the tow vehicles capabilities and start with a bit more robust platform.. Much cheaper over all when you do not have to buy and install all kind of after market fixes..

All the fixes above together you can spend $3k easily and never notice a difference.. $3K can pay for the extra upgrade from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton..

Moryde. Video