While taking my trailer to storage I got three messages:"Check trailer wiring""Check trailer brake wiring""Trailer brakes disconnected"The brakes were periodically disconnected which I confirmed with the manual brake function.I have replaced the 7 pin cord and the next step is to replace the trailer brake wiring. I can do this job and my experience with boating electrical systems causes me to much prefer crimped connections. I am planning on running 12 gauge double wires down each side.My problem is that I can't figure out how to connect two wires into one with a crimp. I need to do that at both ends of the new wire. There are Y connectors that would work but I would prefer a connection that would be entirely under heat shrink tubing. Is there a better solution?As always, thanks for your help.

A #10 butt connector should be able to handle two #12 SAE multi-strand wires.I would suggest injecting electrical grease into the connectors prior to crimping.

enblethen wrote:A #10 butt connector should be able to handle two #12 SAE multi-strand wires.I would suggest injecting electrical grease into the connectors prior to crimping.X2 ^ ^ But one question have you determined where your problem is. If you look up my older post I had the same issue and it turned out to be the magnets and the additional wiring all cooked and died.

One word "SOLDER". I have built custom motorcycles for the 10 years and found through this experience the importance of soldering all wiring connections whether the crimp variety or not. I remove the hard plastic insulation from the connector and crimp in postion, then solder. I then follow up with heat shrink tubing for insulation.

Soldering is a bad idea in an application (such as RVs) where things move.Electrical background from the USAF, the one thing that was drilled in to our heads was "soldering isn't a preferred practice on wires in a vehicular application".Heat shrink crimp connectors are fine.With regard to your trailer pigtail, does it have movement (side to side) in the truck's plug?It's a known fact that there are some trailer pigtail manufacturers that don't build their plugs to the exact spec (in diameter) and they fit loosely in the OEM truck receptacle.If the plug has any slop in the truck's receptacle, that's the most likely source of the problem

Have you checked your ground?? Bad grounds affect more things than one can imagin.

Brake rewiring | Good Sam Community

Durb
Explorer
Oct 16, 2016
hohenwald48 wrote:
trail-explorer wrote:
Soldering is a bad idea in an application (such as RVs) where things move.

Electrical background from the USAF, the one thing that was drilled in to our heads was "soldering isn't a preferred practice on wires in a vehicular application".

Ditto the "no solder" information. Especially in a corrosive environment like under a trailer and inside an axle tube.

I've been soldering and taping for way too many years and have never had a connection failure. Now I find I am doing it wrong. Never too late to learn. I am curious though as to the rational for no solder.
wgriswold
Explorer
Oct 15, 2016
Thanks. You have found the crimp parts I need.
time2roll
Nomad
Oct 15, 2016
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/32990/Multiple-Sealed-Wire-Connector/

I have used these and they are an excellent solution.
hohenwald48
Explorer
Oct 15, 2016
trail-explorer wrote:
Soldering is a bad idea in an application (such as RVs) where things move.

Electrical background from the USAF, the one thing that was drilled in to our heads was "soldering isn't a preferred practice on wires in a vehicular application".

Ditto the "no solder" information. Especially in a corrosive environment like under a trailer and inside an axle tube.
hohenwald48
Explorer
Oct 15, 2016
An appropriately sized on of these is what you need to crimp multiple wires together.

Crimp Connector
eHoefler
Explorer II
Oct 15, 2016
Have you checked your ground?? Bad grounds affect more things than one can imagin.
trail-explorer
Explorer
Oct 15, 2016
Soldering is a bad idea in an application (such as RVs) where things move.

Electrical background from the USAF, the one thing that was drilled in to our heads was "soldering isn't a preferred practice on wires in a vehicular application".

Heat shrink crimp connectors are fine.

With regard to your trailer pigtail, does it have movement (side to side) in the truck's plug?

It's a known fact that there are some trailer pigtail manufacturers that don't build their plugs to the exact spec (in diameter) and they fit loosely in the OEM truck receptacle.

If the plug has any slop in the truck's receptacle, that's the most likely source of the problem
Cqyqte
Explorer
Oct 15, 2016
One word "SOLDER". I have built custom motorcycles for the 10 years and found through this experience the importance of soldering all wiring connections whether the crimp variety or not. I remove the hard plastic insulation from the connector and crimp in postion, then solder. I then follow up with heat shrink tubing for insulation.
Nicholsfamily05
Explorer
Oct 15, 2016
enblethen wrote:
A #10 butt connector should be able to handle two #12 SAE multi-strand wires.
I would suggest injecting electrical grease into the connectors prior to crimping.

X2 ^ ^

But one question have you determined where your problem is.

If you look up my older post I had the same issue and it turned out to be the magnets and the additional wiring all cooked and died.
enblethen
Nomad
Oct 15, 2016
A #10 butt connector should be able to handle two #12 SAE multi-strand wires.
I would suggest injecting electrical grease into the connectors prior to crimping.

Forum Discussion

Brake rewiring

About Travel Trailer Group

Related Content

Rewiring trailer brakes, best place to ground them?

Braking Conundrum

Disc Brakes

DISC BRAKES

Does Exhaust brake activate brake lights?