Breakaway Switch Confusion.

Lynnmor wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:
X2, Old Biscuit. After repair, test it! My life may depend on it working.

It’s not YOUR life if it is your trailer when it breaks free of the truck, you just drive away. Other users of the highway might want the trailer to do some braking, I guess that is what you mean.

Read his quote again. You and he are in agreement.



I see no reason for a break away switch to need a ground. It's just a simple single pole switch. I'm really curious why it would have/need a ground wire. I too would probably just swap it for a 2 wire so you are doing a direct replacement of the old one.

Instead of arguing perhaps do an Internet search..

What are the functions of a three wire breakaway switch..

"What are the Functions of the 3 Wires on Hopkins LED Breakaway Switch, # HM20059

Question:

current brake away has only 2 wires, this one has three,black,blue,and white. will this still operate correctly? and how to wire into only 2 wires?

asked by: Terry

Expert Reply:

You are correct, the Hopkins LED Breakaway Switch, # HM20059, does have 3 wires. The white wire is the ground wire and should be attached to the trailer frame. The blue wire on the switch will connect to the electric brake wire coming from the trailer side connector. The black wire goes to the break away battery. This part is just a switch, if you need a new system, I recommend Engager Trailer BreakAway Kit with Charger and Tester, # 20099. I have included a link to the installation details for reference.

If you just need a replacement 2 wire switch, you can use Hopkins Replacement Break-Away Switch, # HM20010. On this switch, one wire splices into the electric brake wire coming from the trailer side connector. The other wire connects to the break away systems brake wire."


Hopkins LED Breakaway switch HERE

"LED indicator on breakaway switch lets you know the battery powered, emergency breakaway is engaged. If the plunger is removed the LED light is illuminated, indicating that there is power passing through the switch. 7" Long wires.

Features:

Durable pin and vehicle hook-up cable
Weatherproof design
LED test verifies power is being transferred to the trailer brakes
Light indicates that the breakaway circuit is engaged



Specs:

Works with Hopkins, Tekonsha and Tow Ready Breakway systems
7" Long installation wires
48" Long cable
90-Day warranty



A crucial component to a breakaway system, a breakaway switch is what activates the trailer brakes should your trailer become disconnected from the tow vehicle.


20059 LED Break Away Switch"

The ground is needed if you wish to use the LED light indicator which is built into the switch.

The LED lights up when the PIN is pulled to indicate if the switch is working and sending voltage to the brakes.

That's it, switch will still work fine even if you do not ground that extra wire, just don't expect the LED to light in that case.

That's good to know GD. But seems to be complicating the system! No reason to have an LED when you can see if the plunger is out.

Here is a picture of the wiring instructions. Is this saying blue from switch to blue in junction box? White from switch to white from junction box? And black from switch to positive on my trailer battery?

Kelpike wrote:

Here is a picture of the wiring instructions. Is this saying blue from switch to blue in junction box? White from switch to white from junction box? And black from switch to positive on my trailer battery?

Almost. Blue to trailer brake wire, whatever color it is.. Black to trailer battery positive (+) terminal. White to frame. Note that the LED light will light up anytime the trailer brakes are activated by the brake controller, not that you will ever see it.(Please reduce the width of your photo, like I did here.)

Sorry Gdetrailer, I was creating my last post when you posted yours. Thank you for your reply.

Bobbo wrote:

Almost. Blue to trailer brake wire, whatever color it is.. Black to trailer battery positive (+) terminal. White to frame. Note that the LED light will light up anytime the trailer brakes are activated by the brake controller, not that you will ever see it.(Please reduce the width of your photo, like I did here.)

Hi, im not sure how to reduce the width of my picture. Thank you for clarifying my wiring connections.

what came off it, 2 wire or 3? Most are two wire and makes no differance on which goes where it's an on off switch. Pin in it's off pin out it puts 12V to the trailer brakes.

dodge guy wrote:
That's good to know GD. But seems to be complicating the system! No reason to have an LED when you can see if the plunger is out.

Ahh, yes, on the surface one would think that the LED serves no real needed purpose because conventional wisdom would make the assumption that the breaks should work when you have the plunger in your hand..

Sadly though, may not ALWAYS be the case.

These switches live 24/7/365 fully outdoors, rain snow, sunshine, high temps and freezing temps..

They sometimes fail, moisture seeps in from the outside and can corrode and damage the contacts rendering the good looking switch on the outside completely DOA when you need it the most.

I have had to replace one myself when I didn't bother to test the breakaway switch before hauling the RV for the annual state safety inspection.. Failed inspection means I pay for that inspection but do not get sticker until I FIX the problem and have to haul it back to that station to have the repair checked.. Making a 30 mile round trip now 60 miles.

I have often contemplated adding a LED somewhere on the trailer tongue so I can quickly test the switch without the need to hook up a vehicle and pulling or having to grab a jack, jack up a side to test the system..

I actually didn't realize a manufacturer made one with a diagnostic LED.. Might have to consider buying one of these the next time I need to replace one..

I actually keep a spare switch while traveling..

Edd505 wrote:
what came off it, 2 wire or 3? Most are two wire and makes no differance on which goes where it's an on off switch. Pin in it's off pin out it puts 12V to the trailer brakes.

2 wire doesn't care what wire is used for what.

3 wire, well sort of does matter IF you want the diagnostic LED to work..

LEDs are polarity sensitive so don't wire it backwards and hooking up the power on the lead that goes to the brakes will result in the LED being on 100% of the time..