Broke oven gas line

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM

Hi I recently repaired the gas line going into the water heater. I purchased the gas line, cutting tool, new flange nuts, and flange tool. Hardest part was not destroying the gas line while bending, cutting, or flange creation. Went through 20ft of gas line before mastering all three skills. I had to go from underneath trailer junction and feed the line up. It's a diy task and no dealers will do anything due to liability concerns.

It was quite the boom! when I tried to light it. Thank goodness no one was injured.

Flange and nut???

All LPG lines have to be flared connections or pipe thread, they are fairly easy to do.

I took a picture but am having trouble posting it. How in the world do you add one?

So it's the smooth tube that is no longer connected to anything.

Probably is 3/8 copper and will need to rerun through that plastic hole to a junction under the trailer. I think I used wrong term flange instead of flared. The flaring tool creates the lip, make sure the nuts are on the pipe before flaring.

I got all the tools and hardware at ACe hardware.

The challenge is only the delicate copper. I needed 10 feet, bend 90 up at hole in floor, loop up and bring down to back of water heater, bend at heater's hole, flare and seat. Destroyed quite a bit of copper at trailer hole and water heater hole bends.

You should be able to order a new part, probably called pilot tube.

PAThwacker wrote:
...Destroyed quite a bit of copper at trailer hole and water heater hole bends.

You should have bought one more tool, called a "tubing bender".

I got this kit a couple of months ago to repair my broken fridge pilot. I'd be it's the same:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E297FI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a flaring kit to flare the end where it attaches the fuel source. The other end is a compression fitting (both included in the kit).