Forum Discussion

twodownzero's avatar
twodownzero
Explorer
Sep 17, 2014

Building a Heavy Duty Charging Circuit for Camper--how big?

So I discovered my camper isn't charging when I'm driving and diagnosed why: my charge wire fuse was burned from God knows when, and my solar panel connector was corroded to the point of not working at all. I'm ordering parts now.

In the meantime, I want to make a new charging circuit for my camper. Why? Two reasons. The stock ampacity is******(20 amp fuse, likely far less than that in the real world) and the worst part is that it's hot all the time, so my camper would draw from my truck batteries and kill them. So as to avoid that issue, I'd like to upgrade.

Looking online, many have built 100+ amp charging circuits with 2 AWG wire. This strikes me as overkill but I'm open minded enough to reconsider that thought if someone can convince me. I do understand that voltage drop is an issue with only 12-14 volts and so I can be persuaded, however, it is difficult to splice wires as they increase in size so I don't want to go nuts.

I plan to alleviate the "hot all the time" problem by using a continuous duty solenoid and by using a relay to close that solenoid so as to protect whatever circuit I steal the key-on 12 volts from. The solenoid will be rated for much more than I plan to run wire for, so the real question is determining what sort of ampacity this circuit ought to have. I will fuse the wire at the appropriate ampacity which will protect the solenoid and the wire running down the frame to the camper.

So how big of a wire do I run? The camper's charge wire is 10 AWG, I believe. I am not going to install a separate plug for the camper so the 7 wire plug in the bed is what will be being used to charge the battery.

I'm inclined to use a 40 amp fuse and run 8 awg wire. This seems small but is probably enough for what I'm expecting to do. My refrigerator will NOT run on propane when driving; it blows out. So I need to have enough current capability to get some positive charge into the battery and run the fridge.

Is a 40 amp circuit enough? The factory circuit in my truck is only 20 amps and so this seems like a significant upgrade, but by the time I run the wire all the way down the frame, jumping from 8 to 4 or even 2 awg isn't a huge expense and I could go bigger.

If I go larger than 8 awg, though, I face another issue. My truck has two 7 pin connectors--the factory one at the bumper and a secondary one I added in the bed. I plan to cut the charge wire that goes to the secondary one in the bed and hook up the new charging circuit only to that wire, so that I don't cut any factory wires and so that my charging circuit is only used for the truck camper. If I use a wire larger than 8 awg, I think I will have a hard time splicing that into the 8-10 awg wire that is existing. What kind of junction block is available to make this transition cleanly? I'm not against running a larger wire to reduce voltage drop, but if I can't make a clean connection at the rear where I hook it up, all may be lost that is gained by the larger conductors.

I know I've written a lot so here's the Reader's Digest:

1. I want to run an ignition only charge circuit for camper
2. I want to use big wire and fuse it appropriately but I don't want to go complete overkill.
3. I want to know how to hook up whatever big wire I end up using at the camper end because splicing a 2 awg wire to an 8 awg one is not easy.

Thanks all!
  • My 4 gauge wire install and more related information.

    I left my original plug wires intact and still use the existing wires in parallel to the new 4 gauge wire installation. The highest charge voltage I would get on the factory wires was about 12.6 volts. With the new 4 gauge wire, I get up to 14.2 volts on high idle and 13.9 volts most of the time at the TC batteries. I wired the new 4 gauge wire directly to the alternator as it eliminates about 9 feet of wire if the positive is wired direct to the truck battery. Length of wire is the enemy. Look at my install above. Should give you some good ideas. The 4 gauge continuous duty solenoid is powered by the activate wire for the factory cube relay to charge the TC batteries. The wires are both in use and in parallel. More wire = thicker wire and better conductance.
  • I started this upgrade 3 years ago and never finished.

    Having camper batteries below 11 volts over the weekend, and watching them charger at 2 amps with the engine running made me realize I NEED to finish the project.

    I ran 2 AWG cable. I never gave any thought to a fuse, but I need to install one. Anyone have a recommendation of fuse and fuse holder, and a source for one? I'd like 50 or 75amp. My plan is to use Andersen connectors.

    My truck came with dual alternators - I might as well put them to use.

    I've never seen another GM truck on a lot with dual alternators.
  • What size is your battery bank? Will it be larger in the future?

    I have 440Ah of battery capacity in two banks. The AGM batteries will take a lot of current when 50% discharged. My alternator puts out 130A. Battery monitor has shown more than 90A going in from the truck alternator.
    I increased the wire size from the alternator to the solid state relay, fused with a 150A megafuse. Used 2 AWG to a dedicated connection on the TC and back. Rewired the inside of the TC from that connector to a Blue Sea manual switch then onto the converter / battery bank junction, then to the batteries themselves. All 2 AWG. Overkill? Can easily recharge TC batteries and run TC heater and refrig while driving during winter road trips. Also have a 80A Converter so the generator doesn't have to run as long to get back to 90% SOC.

    On my dodge, the voltage sensing to control the alternator is at the ECU. Also temperature compensated charging. So when driving at night, during the winter at temperatures of 10F or lower, the ECU has the alternator output at 15.7 VDC. If I've been driving for most of the day, the fully charged, warm AGM batteries inside the TC, could be overcharged. Thus the reason for a switch to turn off the power back to the TC.
  • I used a 150 amp relay, 100amp breaker, 2 or 4 gauge wire, and the 200 amp lift gate plug. Not all of the run is 2 gauge; the camper side is 4 gauge and only 10ft long, the truck side is 2 gauge, but almost 12 feet long.

    No 7 way connector can take a wire bigger than 10 gauge, and that is iffy, and that is the choke point. The 7 way design is to charge a break-a-way battery, not the monsters in comparison in a camper.
  • I ran a separate circuit from my battery to the rear of my truck. Used #6 cable and 50 amp fuse. Used Anderson connectors rated for 60 amp. Then on to my trailer batteries. Now I have 2 connections to make when hitching up. My regular 7 way ( which I still have the regular 12V in it) and the dedicated charging circuit.