Finally was allowed to log in after they reset the servers on this portal...seems
they do NOT like browsers setup 'incognito'...
Anti-seize purpose is to keep the fastener(s) from getting stuck in the threaded hole
Assume (always a risky position) they used high temp grease, but lets say they used
El Cheapo, mud-hen grease as the carrier
Then that most folks just use it out of the bottle and do NOT stir up the settled
metal dust that always settles down to the bottom. No matter aluminum or copper
'Cuz' it will be mostly grease, which will heat up and bleed into the
hole and burn off...but insignificant amount to crust like what is
pictured on Don's pictures
When applying it to the threads with the bottle's brush in the cap...I just put
a dollop on the plug threads...not putting any on the electrode. NOTHING in
the threaded hole
How this works during installation is that the threads on the hole will push/squeegee
the anti-seize AWAY from the plug tip and distribute it towards the plug
body
None will get/move/etc towards the plug tip
Real metal dust/filings/etc and would need to reach much higher sustained temps
to burn it to ash. The metal around it (the plug body, threaded hole of the head,
etc would absorb and reject that kind of heat to the coolant surrounding the plug
hole in the head
Look again at the pic of my plugs. There is NO burned oil, nor anti-seize grease
But combustion deposits from the fuel
Agree with Turtle...it is engine oil and engine oil ash...
Add to Wes's excellent description that it is the 'Corona Effect' or
'Corona Discharge' for that 'jump' between electrical surfaces (AKD...Edge Effect)
There are additional stuff that affect the spark jump. PSI and air
movement are the two main additional components
