Forum Discussion

jbres's avatar
jbres
Explorer
Feb 25, 2014

Carport suggestion

Anyone have a good RV Carport brand?
I am finally getting around to excavating and getting my RV carport installed this spring and am looking for some suggestions...
Carolina Carports?
Menards sells RV carports but they look cheap
I am in the Cincinnati Ohio area

For financial reasons and zoning reasons I must go with a RV carport and not a pole building...


  • I am lucky to have my htt stored on the side of a pole barn/marten bld.
    the barn houses a 40 foot Prevost, with a work area on the internal side. My hybrid barely clears the header but has a full 40 feet and ample overhead clearance. I would have to mod the header to fit a taller camper on the side patio.
  • I have a VersaTube RV awning, 12' wide, 30' long,13' high, and it works great. All galvanized and made in the USA. My town gave me a permit and called it a pavillion. I had it installed on a 5.5" thick, reinforced concrete slab. The awning is rated for a snow load of 65 lbs. per at a wind load of 90 mph. highest requirement in NYS, by code. My TT is 102" wide and I have no problem backing the TT in and opening the door of the TT to access it. Also nice to be able to, maintain, work on, wash & wax TT under the awning.
    Good luck.
  • Back again.

    I would suggest at least 12' tall lower side, even if the current RV is only 11'4" tall at the center. Lets say that you need to patch the roof, and you wanted to work on the roof. How can you do that with a 12' tall roof, where you barely scrape the roof as you enter?

    So if you have a lower wall consisting of 4X4 pressure treated 12' long sitting on the cement that the RV will park on, install a 4X8 or 4X10" on top from front to back, then rafters sized for your local snow loads will sit on top of this. So it will be at least 12' 7.5" to the bottom of the rafters on the low side, and up to 5' taller on a 14' span to the higher side. So you would be able to work on one side of the roof, and then need to turn it around if you wanted to work near the edge at the lower side of the carport.

    Make sure to get a permit to build something like this. The plan checker for your county or town will make sure that the snow will not crush your RV and damage it. You might be surprised to find out how much weight your roof (of the house) must support. But lets say that you get 12" of snow followed by 3" of rain. Some will worry about the roof caving in, but if built to code, yours will be fine.

    You might also want to consider a metal roof. It will help the snow slide off better.

    Good luck!

    Fred.
  • Hi,

    If you are looking at portable carports, then don't plan on living in a snow area.

    My suggestion is get a lot of wood and build something attached to either the side of your house or garage. Check the span, and snow load requirements. It might require 2X10's on 16" center or even 2X12's. Your roof can not be flat or less than 3" rise for each foot wide it is, due to the snow load. It probably needs to be as steep as the average homes in your area. So it might require 4" rise for each foot of width.

    I would recommend at least 12' width. I tried parking a 40' X 102" motorhome in a 42' garage with 12' wall to wall. Getting the mirrors between the 11' door opening is difficult. It must go straight in, as any curve will make the motorhome to wide to fit in the door. (OK try it. Take a 8" wide sheet of paper and place it into a 10" wide garage. If it is straight and has 1" mirrors, it will fit, but put it at a angle and it will not fit.)

    So if it is 14' wide, then it needs to have about 4" rise per foot, the higher side will be 56"higher than the low side, or if it is a peak roof, then 28" on each side.

    Anyway I have to sign off now.

    Fred.