I'm going to pull the trigger on a relatively small inflatable boat (likely, the Intex Mariner 4) to get me away from shore while fishing on camping trips. The inflatable which I'm looking at can fit into 1 or maybe 2 medium sized duffle bags. Or possibly a medium to large tote. Due to restricted amount of space inside the camper, I'd like to transport the duffle bags or tote on the camper roof. BUT...I don't want it rubbing a hole in the roof material.Anyone else on here strap bags and/or totes to your roof and, if so, how do you prevent those items from doing damage to the roof?Pics are appreciated!TIA.

We use a gorrilla bag for our portabote seats etc up on the roof. Strap it to the Maggie rack.You might also try a hitch haul on the front. Might be more convenient Bill

I had a ladder and chairs on my roof for a short time. Used a piece of carpet with the good side down on the membrane.

I like the upside-down carpet idea! I've thought many times about adding a front hitch with carrier rack. But the disruption of air flow into the radiator and, more importantly, the tranny cooler makes me nervous. I pull some long, steep grades where I go camping.

I would not opt to put on roof. How tall is your rig and how tall will it be with tote or duffle bags on top?How much does the inflatable weigh?Have you thought about a front or rear mount cargo carrier?

Allstate had a commercial called. Mayhem, This idea is a accident waiting to happen. Stuff falling off the roof, cars wrecking trying to avoid duffle bags.you must be crazy to consider this idea.

Carrying stuff on the roof | Good Sam Community

_DJ_1
Explorer II
Feb 01, 2015
idaho_camper wrote:
I was apparently WAY under on my estimate of the Mariner 4. I estimated ~20lbs, when it's about 80lbs. Still entirely feasible to carry on the roof, which I plan to do.

I do like the idea of a front rack, though, for other things. I already have a rack for the rear. And actually, I'm towing an ATV trailer most of the time when camping anyway, so the rear rack stays home when I am towing.

DJ: Did you fab up your front hitch and racl? If you had someone else do it, may I ask who it was?

Major Tire & Hitch on Chinden installed the frame mount front hitch rated at 500# weight carrying. The rack is from Harbor Freight.

Another great use for a front hitch!!!
idaho_camper
Explorer
Feb 02, 2015
Thanks DJ. They hooked me up on hitch related stuff a few years ago. Good crew there. I'll definitely hit them up on a front hitch for my current rig.

I looked at the Curt hitch on etrailer.com, but having to remove/relocate the OEM foglights is kind of a big deal for me. I drive in plenty of foggy conditions in the winter. If I don't have to relocate them, that would be a big plus.
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Feb 02, 2015
idaho_camper wrote:
Thanks DJ. They hooked me up on hitch related stuff a few years ago. Good crew there. I'll definitely hit them up on a front hitch for my current rig.

I looked at the Curt hitch on etrailer.com, but having to remove/relocate the OEM foglights is kind of a big deal for me. I drive in plenty of foggy conditions in the winter. If I don't have to relocate them, that would be a big plus.

Curt makes a under the air dam, leave the fog lights alone front hitch. I have one. The biggest problem on my Ford was that it used the front leaf spring shackle bolt which I couldn't budge. I did a workaround its posted on the board some 4 years back.
dedub
Explorer
Feb 03, 2015
Buzzcut1 wrote:
if you use a yakima or thule rack and cargo box system on the roof you will not have any securement or roof damage issues to deal with. I have driven 5000 miles with the thule cargo box and close to 3000 miles with my kayaks on the roof rack system.

Are you referring to using the factory roof rack system as a base or something else? I'm a little leery of the strength of the OEM ones. Maybe for no reason.
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Feb 03, 2015
dedub wrote:
Buzzcut1 wrote:
if you use a yakima or thule rack and cargo box system on the roof you will not have any securement or roof damage issues to deal with. I have driven 5000 miles with the thule cargo box and close to 3000 miles with my kayaks on the roof rack system.

Are you referring to using the factory roof rack system as a base or something else? I'm a little leery of the strength of the OEM ones. Maybe for no reason.
bka0721
Explorer II
Feb 03, 2015
Buzzcut1 wrote:
dedub wrote:
Buzzcut1 wrote:
if you use a yakima or thule rack and cargo box system on the roof you will not have any securement or roof damage issues to deal with. I have driven 5000 miles with the thule cargo box and close to 3000 miles with my kayaks on the roof rack system.

Are you referring to using the factory roof rack system as a base or something else? I'm a little leery of the strength of the OEM ones. Maybe for no reason.

Photos removed so as not to be duplicating what is previously posted

The OEM Lance Factory installed Roof Rack System (Maggie Rack) is really strong and rated for 300 lbs of cargo. Also, if you look how and where it is installed, it is easy to see that it is installed directly over and onto the exterior frame of the actual Truck Camper. If a choice for a location is made, to attached a rack or support, being over the outside wall is greatly preferred than only the roof structure/surface.

b
idaho_camper
Explorer
Feb 04, 2015
Unfortunately, those roof racks are much beefier than the OEM ones on my AF. I wouldn't even think of putting a load like that on mine! Thanks for posting those pics, though.
wintersun
Explorer II
Feb 06, 2015
We had a 11 ft. inflatable but it turned out to be impractical for use with the camper. First it was heavy and bulky and we kept it in the rear of the cab of the truck along with the thwarts and a motor (either and outboard and fuel cannister or a trolling motor with a deep cycle battery. We also tried a Porta-bote and I attached side brackets where the camper jacks are mounted and this worked well for transporting the boat but still had the outboard in the cab.

Third approach has been to use kayaks on a kayak trailer and this works the best for us. I did not want to pull a 70 lb. kayak up on the roof and the kayaks would block our skylights and air vents with our 845 camper. With the trailer I can rig the two kayaks and then back them to the launch area and have them in the water in minutes. Overall the logistics work better end to end with the kayaks and the trailer.

Another option I considered was the special RV racks I found at www.rvkayakrack.com. They make racks that attach to the hitch or a hitch extension and hold two to four kayaks vertically (limited to a 11' long kayak) and can also hold two bicycles. One type has a swing away design so it works where the camper has a rear entry. This one is very expensive but the racks for a RV with side entry are only $1300 which is about what a basic kayak trailer costs.
Geewizard
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Wintersun, thanks for posting your solutions. I've been asking on the forum about ways to carry kayaks. As much as I don't like to tow anything behind my TC, I think the kayak trailer is the best solution for me.

Which brand of kayak trailer did you go with? Or did you make your own?
My_Blue_Heaven
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Another vote for a front receiver carrier.

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