Ceramic heater

I installed 3 permanent heaters in our 29' TT totaling 1750 watts, one in each room/area and each heater has it's own wall thermostat. We have 30 amp service. We don't use our furnace at all anymore except for late season or early season camping and in temps. no lower than in the low 40s. Our heaters often run continuously due to inadequate insulation. When it gets into the 40s, it works, but just barely and would rather have it a little more warmer inside and the floor is cold and we need to wear slippers and sometimes need a blanket over our legs when watching TV. We have the reflectix covering on the underside of the roof (optional on our TT) and I don't really think it does much if anything.

Two of our heaters can be set for higher wattage by changing connections inside. I'm going to try adding another 250 watts in the bedroom and bathroom for a total of 2250 watts so that these can hopefully cycle on & off more often. I built a custom demand controller and when anything else in turned on or plugged in, it instantaneously shuts the heaters off, and then back on when the loads are removed. We can plug a hair dryer in or run the MW for ex. and not have a 30 amp breaker trip.

Trailer insulation is typically not done well, esp. in the ceiling. Just because it is insulated doesn't mean you can run a heater satisfactorily when it gets colder. In a 30' TT, you will find 1500 watts is not going to work all that great and the room/area you have it in may be warm, but the bedroom and bathroom will be chilly. Cords on these heaters are 16 gauge and if running continuously will get warm - do not cover them with anything and do not coil them up. Using a 2nd ceramic (or other type) heater with both on a lower setting may work. And this way you can run more than 1500 watts providing you be careful about what else you plug in while they're running.

As noted above, when it gets cold out and down to near freezing, you won't have the heated underbelly that the furnace provides so you will need to run that to maintain an adequate temp. down there.

Personally I don't like the idea of a ceramic heater as it's too easy to accidentally (or not) have something on the floor too close to it. Oil-filled heaters are a great idea except for their physical size. Oil-filled heaters are also good in that they are totally quiet which is good when watching TV.

Another thing you might look into is holes and penetrations through the floor that allow cold air inside. The factories often hack big gaping openings. Expanding foam or tuck tape (Venture in the US) will help. I used the foam and it does help somewhat. In cold weather and if the electric heater(s) isn't cutting it, resist the temptation to close all the vents and windows. You MUST vent moisture out in cold weather otherwise you can end up with serious damage.

There is another solution to getting more power in a 30 amp RV and that is by plugging into the 20 amp GFCI in a pedestal. It's not too hard to add a 20 amp power inlet on the side of a TT and then install a recept. dedicated to a heater. The caveat tho. is that you *might* increase voltage drop - this can be alleviated by plugging into a 50 amp pedestal. Also, low voltage will reduce heater output and varies as the square of the voltage. For ex., say at 105 volts, a 1500 watt heater would put out 105/120 x 105/120 x 1500 watts = 1150 watts. At 110 volts it would be 1260 watts. If your heater isn't quite cutting it at a full 1500 watts, voltage drop can result in it being too cold inside. Get a plug-in or permanent voltmeter and keep an eye on the voltage - this is a good idea at all times anyway. We have a Hughes autoformer for CGs that have low voltage and the heaters will run at or closer to their ratings.