Changing the gears in my suburban
I have decided to change the gears in my suburban (2008 5.3L 4sp auto), but not sure how much of a change to make. I currently have 3.73 gears, and was thinking 4.30 because 4.10 doesn't change much,...
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Go for it...another learning experience of school of hard knocks...not saying you won't like it...think you will...but it will still be a half ton...
Know from my hard knock PhD's...
My 1973 K5 Blazer was not up to the trailers borrowed from buddies...even though they were in the 18' to 24' range. Short wheel base and that half ton frame...need the whole package to manhandle the situation at that day Mr Murphy cross your path...
Took a few weeks scrounging and another few weeks installing a Dana 60 front (re-arched with positive curve) and GM 14 bolt rear. Up sized all the U-joints, etc, etc to a full 1 ton suspension...but...it was still a half ton frame...
There is a potential weakness in the higher numerical gear sets because the pinion gear get pretty small in dia vs the ring gear...but...it makes up for it with more turns per rev to distribute the torque over the ring gear.
As others have stated...your tire rev's per mile will come into play, as are the other attributes. Tire rev's per mile of OEM vs your 'new' setup will dictate which tranny gear is best for any situation. Do the math as others have listed for each gear of your tranny vs the 'old' and 'new' diff ratio...then decide where you wish to be in any of those situations on engine rev's
Found this one but don't know if it applies to yours...PS...the onboard image function no longer seems to work with just a drag n drop...gotta have an url...
If me, I'd prefer to tow between 3.5K and 5K RPMs with this engine
Know from my hard knock PhD's...
My 1973 K5 Blazer was not up to the trailers borrowed from buddies...even though they were in the 18' to 24' range. Short wheel base and that half ton frame...need the whole package to manhandle the situation at that day Mr Murphy cross your path...
Took a few weeks scrounging and another few weeks installing a Dana 60 front (re-arched with positive curve) and GM 14 bolt rear. Up sized all the U-joints, etc, etc to a full 1 ton suspension...but...it was still a half ton frame...
There is a potential weakness in the higher numerical gear sets because the pinion gear get pretty small in dia vs the ring gear...but...it makes up for it with more turns per rev to distribute the torque over the ring gear.
As others have stated...your tire rev's per mile will come into play, as are the other attributes. Tire rev's per mile of OEM vs your 'new' setup will dictate which tranny gear is best for any situation. Do the math as others have listed for each gear of your tranny vs the 'old' and 'new' diff ratio...then decide where you wish to be in any of those situations on engine rev's
Found this one but don't know if it applies to yours...PS...the onboard image function no longer seems to work with just a drag n drop...gotta have an url...
If me, I'd prefer to tow between 3.5K and 5K RPMs with this engine
