Check engine light on

One time I was heading down a gentle grade to my brothers house (no load on the truck) when the light came on. I know that the light does not necessarily mean that there is a major problem and there was no operational concerns and can be dealt with at the dealer when I returned home. Turns out that there was a bad batch of turbos, so it was replaced under warranty and that turbo has been flawless. Before you head to the dealer make sure that you don't have a problem with your TC's electrical system.

You can get a boost fooler for that

I have thrown that code or an over boost code a few times. Basically happens when pulling uphill on cruise set at 65 mph. Truck floors throttle, speed drops 62mph shifts to 5th, 60 mph shifts to 4th throws code. A strong headwind can make this more likely.
I just dont use cruise uphill when I know the hills steep enough to lug the motor. I get off the cruise and downshift earlier control the throttle with my foot prevent this.
Now I never brought the truck in for this issue. But its been only a few times in the life of my truck that this has happened. Learned how to prevent and it isnt an issue I'm concerned about.

Buy your own meter. Easy to read and are inexpensive.

It is very possible that the CEL came on in response to an electrical "load" from the TC. Many of the sensors use what is called reference voltage to operate. Typically 5V±.5. Since that is provided by the truck's alternator/battery a stray surge or reduction in voltage/amperage associated with the TC could have set a code. If you are on shore power and your inverter is over/under charging the TC battery it could be the truck's "brain" seeing that change in load as a fault. From what I've seen a Duramax can set a code if that voltage drops to 4.7V so maybe you just had a parasitic draw that pulled the voltage down temporarily.

No more check engine light. Driving for about 2 weeks now. Hauled a heavy load pallet of bricks no problem. Guess it's one of those ghost check engine lights.

Just to add to this thread. While on a 3200 mile vacation, after a few miles and when the outside temperature would reach about 86F, I would have a Check Engine Light come on. Truck ran OK (turbo boost psi was super sensitive to the pedal) until the Electronic Throttle Control indicator light came on. There was NO way to increase speed, and to climb a grade, downshifting was the only way to maintain speed. I could turn off the engine, wait a few minutes, start back up, and everything would be fine for the next 1/2 hour or so.

When I got home, I went to an O'Reilly Auto Parts store and the scan codes indicated Turbo Speed Control Sensor was bad.

I contacted the dealer service manager, gave him the codes and he verified O'Reilly's analysis. Service manager said it would cost $463 to replace.

I went online, purchased the Cummins part for $165 delivered, with an 8mm socket, removed the retaining bolt, unplugged the wires, and completed the job in under 15 minutes - after waiting for the vehicle to cool down.

The Turbo Speed Control Sensor sits on top between the hot and cool side of the turbo.

Dealers labor charge would have equated to almost $1,200/hour.

Do you wonder why my truck has only been back to the dealer for recalls or warranty work? Warranty expired May 29, 2013.

BTW - I bought my own scan tool with part of the money I saved by doing the job myself.

you guys got off easy. They just replaced my EGR valve, reprogrammed my PCM, replaced the ICP and IPR sensors and the wiring that went to them.At least they lasted 115,000 miles and 10 years. yes it cost $$$

Gaetan,
was that the same code?

Dennis

Dennis 1
The same thing happen to me last week I went to my service garage and h e p.luged in his computer and it showed that a possible movement of the gas pedal could have caused this, but when I went to see him like you the lite had gone off.
So nothing to worry about
Gaetan