Choosing between two 31 foot RLDS trailers

proxim2020 wrote:
Truck brakes are designed to stop the full GVWR of the truck. The trailer's brakes are designed to stop the GVWR of the trailer. When you're within your limits and everything is setup and functioning correctly, braking is not a problem.

On "paper," the braking limitations set by the manufacturer under "ideal" conditions look pretty good, don't they? However in reality they don't seem to really live up. Especially when the lighter brakes on a 1/2 ton heat up quickly from down hill driving and with an "8,000 lb" load as you claim. When driving down a steep grade, even with brakes working properly, you'd discover the braking difference between a 3/4 ton, vs a 1/2 ton truck and with your "8,000lb" trailer load. At times, the trailer seems to control the tow vehicle, especially when one loads up the trailer too heavy. Personally, my own feeling is an 8,000lb trailer load is way over the capabilities of a 1/2 ton truck, except maybe for flat surfaced streets without hills or steep mountain roads. You're just asking for it if the trailer/truck get ahead of you downhill.

proxim2020 wrote:
My trailer routinely exceeds 8000 lbs and braking is uneventful in my 1/2 ton.

"Exceeds." There's another key component buzz word to this equation. Sorry, but in the interest of safety, I wouldn't take your advice on towing,

proxim2020 wrote:
By the way I know for a fact that my truck is capable of stopping my trailer without the aid of trailer brakes. More effort is required, but it got the job done just fine.

Why did it come to that condition in the first place? Mechanical failure with the trailer's electric brakes? "More effort" ...more buzz words here that stand out and supports my original point about heavy duty truck brakes. Again, another reason to have good heavy duty brakes vs the lighter brakes of a 1/2 ton, especially for your "8,000lb" trailer.

I have no doubt a 1/2 ton can tow plenty of trailers, but very light weighted ones at best.

Funny how everyone immediately jumps on the "possibility" it's the dreaded 1/2 ton,the most worthless towing vehicle made..:B

I say that in jest...My anemic ford F-150 pulled Keystones version of the two trailers mentioned with ease at 8K+ loaded..

To the opp...As I said I have the Keystone version of the two trailers you mentioned with the wrap around dinette.Keystone 26rlswe(30ft)?..Love it and the floor plan....

Both the Coachman and Forest River are nice, so it comes down to which one appeals to you guys the most.The Coachman would be my pick for know real reason other than the small difference in floor plans and colors.As far as your truck goes,you have been pulling a similar sized RV for many years and these won't be much different.

Truck brakes are designed to stop the full GVWR of the truck. The trailer's brakes are designed to stop the GVWR of the trailer. When you're within your limits and everything is setup and functioning correctly, braking is not a problem. The trailer should not be pushing the truck and if it is then there's a problem somewhere. My trailer routinely exceeds 8000 lbs and braking is uneventful in my 1/2 ton. By the way I know for a fact that my truck is capable of stopping my trailer without the aid of trailer brakes. More effort is required, but it got the job done just fine.

I'd downside to a smaller trailer. I have a 31' trailer and will buy a smaller one next time now that the kids will be gone from the nest soon. The reason I want smaller is because I can't go to some places I'd like to, due to the length.

Also, everyone forgets to consider not only towing capacity, but the brakes on a 1500 series truck are nothing when towing big. This is where a 3/4 ton or even a 1-ton are king for towing even lighter weight trailers. The trailer's electric brakes are only one part of the two-part braking equation when towing.

Lady,

Welcome and congrats on the possible new rig!

As mentioned, verify your tv (tow vehicle) is up to the task. Do not believe the "tow rating" if it's a 1500 as they generally run out of payload, or exceed the rear axle rating (RAR) before reaching the "max tow rating".

There is a yellow sticker in the drivers door jamb that states "All occupants and cargo not to exceed XXXXlbs". How much is stated? Understand that as it states, all passengers (only two of you it sounds like most times), cargo (coolers, bikes, firewood, etc- though you may pack very little in the truck bed), any accessories added to the truck (truck topper/cap, tonneau cover, step bars, etc), the wdh (weight distribution hitch), and the tt tw (travel trailer tongue weight) all count toward the trucks rated payload. And do not go by the "brochure" dry tw as it usually does not include the weight of the propane tanks or a battery on the tongue. That can add ~120lbs for 2-20lb tanks and a battery, or ~160lbs for 2-30lb tanks and a battery.

Not familiar with those two models listed, but if the floorplan is very similar, start looking at the finish of the drawer sides when you pull them out, the east of which the drawers and cabinet doors open and close, etc. Also look at the trailer axles rated capacity. Does one have a little heavier rated axle vs the other? Tire size and rating: A 15" tire usually has a few more replacement choices than a 14", a 16" tire a little better replacement choice than a 15". So think of "down the road" also. Beyond that do you guys like cosmetically over the other a little better? Color of cabinets, appliances, etc???

Good luck shopping!!!

Lonestar Lady wrote:
We have plenty of tow rating with our 2014 GMA.

What's a 2014 GMA? :h Guessing perhaps you mean a GMC truck, if so what are it's various ratings? Those are what will determine what you can and cannot tow safety. ;)

which one has a rubber roof? buy the other one.
bumpy

If it's a 1/2 ton GMC, either one of those trailers would be pushing it. As far as those two trailers, they were ok but we liked the build quality of the Outdoors RV products much better! Good luck in your search!

Moved from Forum Technical Support