Forum Discussion
myredracer
Apr 29, 2014Explorer II
It sounds like you do have condensation then - not leaks.
We were out recently in our new TT (3rd in 3 years...) and it was cold and I think the temps. at night were down to around 40F or so. The furnace ran a lot to keep it comfortably warm. We usually turn it down a bit at night. I found the floors to be cold despite having a heated and enclosed underbelly. We always have one or more vents cracked open a tiny bit. We have vent covers and can leave them open 24/7 if wanted but usually close them if out of the TT for any length of time so the furnace won't run as much.
Unless you have a genuine 4-season TT with thicker and better insulation, your furnace will run a lot, esp. if it's in the 30s. It is what it is. If you have a heated and enclosed underbelly, they heat it by running a duct into the underbelly space near the tanks and it escapes into the outside. Not very efficient...
It will also help to open a window or two a wee bit to improve air flow. Single pane windows will pretty much fog up regardless unless nobody is inside. The weep holes in windows are there to drain away condensation. There is a significant amount of moisture released into the air by a human body and pets, showering and cooking. If it's not allowed to escape from a confined space, it will condense inside on cold surfaces. All you can do is vent it out and let the furnace run as needed. If you don't have the roof vent covers (like Maxxis) I would get at least one and for the the vent that has a fan. (You'll need the larger cover.)
People who full-time in the winter can actually cause damage to their RVs by not providing any or adequate ventilation. Unless you intend to camp in the winter or full-time year round, the good news is that the cold weather will be gone soon.
More so on a new/newer RV, with the lack of adequate ventilation, there's also the question of possible formaldehyde off-gassing and health effects.
Several decades ago, homeowners started to seal up houses to make them as air-tight as possible to save energy. Codes even required this for a time. Then mold and rot began to show up as well as health issues from the mold and stale air. Nowadays, timed or continuous fan forced ventilation is typically required to remove moisture and bring in fresh outside air.
We were out recently in our new TT (3rd in 3 years...) and it was cold and I think the temps. at night were down to around 40F or so. The furnace ran a lot to keep it comfortably warm. We usually turn it down a bit at night. I found the floors to be cold despite having a heated and enclosed underbelly. We always have one or more vents cracked open a tiny bit. We have vent covers and can leave them open 24/7 if wanted but usually close them if out of the TT for any length of time so the furnace won't run as much.
Unless you have a genuine 4-season TT with thicker and better insulation, your furnace will run a lot, esp. if it's in the 30s. It is what it is. If you have a heated and enclosed underbelly, they heat it by running a duct into the underbelly space near the tanks and it escapes into the outside. Not very efficient...
It will also help to open a window or two a wee bit to improve air flow. Single pane windows will pretty much fog up regardless unless nobody is inside. The weep holes in windows are there to drain away condensation. There is a significant amount of moisture released into the air by a human body and pets, showering and cooking. If it's not allowed to escape from a confined space, it will condense inside on cold surfaces. All you can do is vent it out and let the furnace run as needed. If you don't have the roof vent covers (like Maxxis) I would get at least one and for the the vent that has a fan. (You'll need the larger cover.)
People who full-time in the winter can actually cause damage to their RVs by not providing any or adequate ventilation. Unless you intend to camp in the winter or full-time year round, the good news is that the cold weather will be gone soon.
More so on a new/newer RV, with the lack of adequate ventilation, there's also the question of possible formaldehyde off-gassing and health effects.
Several decades ago, homeowners started to seal up houses to make them as air-tight as possible to save energy. Codes even required this for a time. Then mold and rot began to show up as well as health issues from the mold and stale air. Nowadays, timed or continuous fan forced ventilation is typically required to remove moisture and bring in fresh outside air.
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