Some more thoughts (JMHO):
Human bodies release moisture into the air of approx. (from respiration and evaporation) of around 2 pints to 2 gallons per day depending on activity level. Kids and pets will release moisture too. So even before you shower or cook inside, there's a lot of moisture that needs to be vented outside in cold weather.
The construction of a TT (and other RVs) is not conducive towards cold weather use. Homes require a vapor barrier on the interior side of a wall by code, but TTs have it on the exterior side in the form of an impermeable fiberglass or metal skin. Fiberglass sided TTs use open cell insulation (not sure if some use closed cell) so moisture can migrate to the exterior skin and condense. This will not hurt aluminum framing but I have to wonder if it can contribute to delamination or other problems. For wood framed TTs with fiberglass batt insulation, moisture condensing on the inside of the wall cavity against the metal skin will not be good and will contribute to rotting of the framing and subfloor.
The same situation of a vapor barrier on the wrong side occurs with the roof/ceiling assembly as the roofing membrane is impermeable. And the roof/ceiling cavity is not vented like in a house.
It's very important to vent the moisture out of your TT when camping in cold weather. Don't seal up openings in an effort to conserve heat. I would consider using a hygrometer to see what the relative humidity is inside. Humans like the RH to be between 20-60% but I've never seen recommendations for RVs (especially considering the reversed vapor barrier). I would think a dehumidifer is a good idea in winter.
I read about one person who was full-timing in Wa. near the coast in the winter where the humidity level is higher. He had water drops literally raining down on him from the ceiling throughout. At first he thought it was a leaking roof but it turned out to be too high a humidity level caused by a failure to open vents and sealing up openings to conserve heat.