Cordless drill for scissor jacks

I used to use a portable battery powered drill for my stabilizers. It always seemed the battery was low or not charged (my fault).

I have since modified an old craftsman speed handle I had laying around and it works quickly and easily.

I am 66 and the battery is still staying charged so far. I also use blocks under jacks to reduce the distance they need to be lowered and raised.

I have found the blocks reducing the distance also help with the stability of the trailer.

Try a Kobalt 24 volt cordless drill. Plenty of power and torque.

Another vote for a simple 18v drill, not an impact. If you need the torque of an impact, something is wrong with your jacks.

Hold the drill with both hands, when you hit the end of the jack screw, all that torque will try to break your wrist... or use a drill with a torque clutch.

I get several up-down cycles from one battery, four jacks - it's a Bosch 18v, lithium ion

I use a Porter-Cable 18 volt drill and it works well. And, I really like the work light that goes with it. I have two batteries and it has become my favorite cordless drill system.

clearn4 wrote:
Looking to purchase a cordless drill to raise and lower the four scissor jacks on my TT. A make and model number with a strong tork just for that would be very helpful.

You (and clearly others judging by some of the responses you've received so far) are under the erroneous assumption that a cordless drill used for the purpose of lowering / raising a trailer's stabilizers needs to offer a lot of torque. It doesn't, in fact very little is required, assuming the stabs are properly maintained and lubed. I for years have been using this 12 volt lithium ion Rigid cordless drill, rated at a mere 120 inch pounds, Model R82007. It's tiny, lightweight, and does the job repeatedly without recharge, trip after trip. I use a small box wrench to break the initial tension, then the drill to lower or raise the stabs ... no issues at all. Unless you intend another additional purpose for this drill there's no need for anything any more powerful. :B

Golden_HVAC wrote:
I use a Ryobi 18 volt drill. They sell one with 2 speeds, and it is handy, as you can run it in low speed for extra torque. .

I use a lot of Ryobi 18 volt stuff myself. and when you go to buy additional batteries or charger, buy a kit on sale instead. on some holiday sale I bought a weed trimmer, charger and lithium battery for $49. if you go to buy the battery alone it will cost $69 and up.
bumpy

I use a Ryobi 18 volt drill. They sell one with 2 speeds, and it is handy, as you can run it in low speed for extra torque.

Yes I also have a 18 volt screwdriver, and it is really handy when building a fence, it will drive a 4" screw into a 2" 2X4 then into a 4x4 post. It is noisy when driving a large screw.

So I would take along the 2 speed drill to run the jacks.

I would take the 18 volt cordless flashlight and use it a lot too!

The 18 volt reciprocating saw is very handy to trim a tree when required, or cut up firewood.

The new Li-Ion batteries last a really long time.

I even have a 18 volt cordless trimmer - weed eater with a 12" diameter cutting width. It is very powerful.

I have been very happy with all the Ryobi products that I have.

Fred.

I use a DeWalt cordless drill just like this one: DeWalt cordless drill

I would not use an impact gun. No need for a hammering affect on the stabilizers. It will eventually take it's toll on the screw mechanism.

Lynnmor wrote:

yrusoslo wrote:
Look into a cordless impact gun

Please don't use an impact and annoy the entire campground. I use a cheap Harbor Freight Drill.

I only run the jacks to the ground and finish by hand so that the amount of load can be felt.

Usually you can hear the impact guns half way across the campground. It's amazing how loud they are when the metal amplifies the sound.

I have used the impact gun with no freak outs. Now the one I am using is not for lug nuts its for driving screws. I don't see it as a big problem unless it was during sleeping hours. Works great by the way. JMHO