Forum Discussion
sabconsulting
Jan 01, 2014Explorer
Great video - I hadn't thought about using video to record camper modifications, but it does give you a good impression of what is really involved in the job that maybe pictures on their own don't.
One warning about these CR-series fridges (not a problem you have experienced), but anyone installing one needs to make sure they have good thick wire from the battery to the fridge - that one caught me out - I had a really long run of wire that was OK for running the absorption fridge, but on plugging it in the transient current draw as the big capacitor in the control unit charged, dropped the input voltage enough for its battery protection circuitry to shut itself down with no indication of what the problem was - just looks like a dead controller unit.
Hence for anyone else doing this swap, if the fridge seems dead on 12v then try it with a jump start cable or similar heavy duty cable to the battery to prove it is working - if that is OK then it is just that you need thicker wire or a shorter run of wire to prevent the voltage drop.
Steve.
One warning about these CR-series fridges (not a problem you have experienced), but anyone installing one needs to make sure they have good thick wire from the battery to the fridge - that one caught me out - I had a really long run of wire that was OK for running the absorption fridge, but on plugging it in the transient current draw as the big capacitor in the control unit charged, dropped the input voltage enough for its battery protection circuitry to shut itself down with no indication of what the problem was - just looks like a dead controller unit.
Hence for anyone else doing this swap, if the fridge seems dead on 12v then try it with a jump start cable or similar heavy duty cable to the battery to prove it is working - if that is OK then it is just that you need thicker wire or a shorter run of wire to prevent the voltage drop.
Steve.
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