Different TT construction

theoldwizard1 wrote:

JBarca wrote:

1. Part of this issue is a design problem in my opinion. The standard RV extruded gutter rail system still used today, is a design issue.

I have always felt this way !

Look at cargo trailers. Most use a rounded piece of aluminum that joins the side wall on the vertical. Much less chance of it to allow water intrusion.

Yes, you are right! I never thought of that. Cargo trailers have a roof and siding joint that is much more robust. Same as a semi trailers. Many of these trailers live outside all the time and are towed many miles. Semi trailers are in millions of miles. Good point. I'm going to have to research this more.

theoldwizard1 wrote:

JBarca wrote:

2. Part of this is a materials issue. The roof sealants and putty tape sealants for walls and non roof opening sealants are not a long life product. While many of the roofs do use a good quality butyl sealing tape, the caulking concept used on the roof is a weak link. And the putty tape used on the walls joints is just not a lasting product.

Eggshell or RV with fiberglass roofs are likely a better solution. 1/4"-3/8" plywood with 6oz or 7.5oz fiberglass cloth over arched roof trusses. All vents/cutouts should be installed with a flange protruding up. 2 layer would be required for adequate strength. The problem with this is not the cost of the material, but the labor cost. It would take at least the same number of worker as it takes to install a rubber roof, but it would take a lot more time, especially if they have to do 2 layers. Cure time would be at least 8-12 hours, and then you would have to finish the edges.

I agree this is one solution. And you are right, labor hours cost money. The materials are a lower part of the cost of a camper where labor is larger cost.

If the RV industry would at least address the shortfalls in the sealing joints, some design some materials, that in itself now could be make a camper to last much better. It could be an incremental lift in camper life with lower owner maintenance without a lot of added cost. The sad part is, a $15,000 starter camper and a $65,000 fifth wheel have the same inherent issues.

theoldwizard1 wrote:

JBarca wrote:

4. Part of this is the knowledge problem of the owner. Since they do not know or some do not care, a camper living outside all the time is destined die a water death. A new camper owner needs to understand how to care for their new camper and the fallout if they do not do what is needed.

5. And then there is the big question, how long is the design life of an RV supposed to be? How many miles, years, highway, off road etc. We may be getting what the design life is? This is a post in itself.

I know the best thing you can do is keep your RV under a cover. RV cover are expensive and short lived, so most sit exposed to the sun.

Yes, keeping the camper undercover is one of the best things one can do. Ours had to live outside all the time for the first 11 years of its life until the new barn came. The last 3 years it could sleep in side. I was fortunate, I realized early on and gave up on the roof caulk sealants back in 2009 and Eternabonded all edges and changed to stainless screws. Especially the gutter rail.

I have been each year now pulling several groups of moldings, windows and door flanges etc off, taking out the putty tape that is failing out and putting high quality butyl in place with a Dicor non sag caulk as a secondary seal. This year I should be closer to completing a complete redo. 14 years and no leaks in the roof or walls. It was work and constant attention but it has worked out. Did have slide floor rot long ago. A fabrication issue with holes in the floor from day 1.

I have used 303 UV protectant on the roof and all things plastic or vinyl including the Dicor caulking. This has made a significant difference in slowing down the sun deterioration. Even the Dicor survives longer.