For some time I have been thinking about replacing my stock torque converter with something heavier. I have a 2005 Dodge 2500 CTD with the 48RE transmission. It tends to get hot when towing up steep inclines or driving through stop and go traffic.In talking with a local reputable transmission shop, they are recommending going with a triple clutch billet torque converter, and at the same time upgrading parts of the transmission. They say this will greatly enhance my towing ability and provide long life to the transmission.Other alternatives would be a rebuild of the stock TC or a single clutch billet TC. Cost would not be all that much more to go with the triple clutch TC.Any ideas or opinions on this upgrade??

A more positive or efficient TC will make a nice improvement to the way it drives. However, unless your power has increased that trans will last a very long time in stock form.

I have a 2000 2500 dodge 5.9 with a 47RE. I just recently rebuilt mine with a Billet single disc torque converter with oem clutches and bearings. Also put in a recalibration kit similar to a shift kit. Unless you are drag racing or pulling 30,000 lbs. all day and every day you DO NOT NEED A TRIPLE DISC CONVERTER. The big difference between the Allison and the others is the torque converter. You should be able to find a billet TQ for less than $500 on Ebay. Remember Billet is just a name for the flex plate that is welded to the TQ. I had mine done for a total of $2,000 that included all of the solenoids.

I like my 2005 dodge CTD. But the TC is the part of the truck I hate the most by far. Get a lower stall billet TC. Single disc or triple, doesn't matter as much as long as it's a good one. Line psi must be bumped up. Which I would imagine the shop would do. They will probably upgrade the valve body, or a cheap transgo shift kit, which is decent as well.

352 wrote:I have a 2000 2500 dodge 5.9 with a 47RE. I just recently rebuilt mine with a Billet single disc torque converter with oem clutches and bearings. Also put in a recalibration kit similar to a shift kit. Unless you are drag racing or pulling 30,000 lbs. all day and every day you DO NOT NEED A TRIPLE DISC CONVERTER. The big difference between the Allison and the others is the torque converter. You should be able to find a billet TQ for less than $500 on Ebay. Remember Billet is just a name for the flex plate that is welded to the TQ. I had mine done for a total of $2,000 that included all of the solenoids.The front cover of the TC is made from billet. Less breaking and much less warping.I had a cheap billet triple eBay TC once. They are cheap for a reason, I was able to blow right threw lockup after 30k miles. Get a decent one. I haven't been in the loop anymore, but suncoast and gorend used to be the top dogs. ATS not so much.

Buy a single disk billet. I think they are overselling. Unless you upgrade the shafts inside the transmission and install a shift kit along with a rebuild, there is zero need for a triple disk. Especially if you are at stock power levels.

Dodge torque converter | Good Sam Community

dodgboy
Explorer
Jan 23, 2015
I had mine rebuilt with all Goerend parts. Since I was already paying for a new transmission I went ahead with the Triple disk which required a Billet input shaft. Also a new valve body. I have an Edge programmer and wanted to not have to worry about it. I also use an exhaust brake and feel like the triple disk will help with longevity.
john_bet
Explorer II
Jan 21, 2015
ib516 wrote:
dryfly wrote:
Thanks for the comments. Please understand my knowledge of transmissions and torque converters is limited and some of the stuff I've read is overwhelming.

I just know I've got to make some changes to bring the towing temps down and from everything I've read in the past, changing out to a good quality billet torque converter is the answer. I will not be doing the work myself obviously so I have to make sure I'm getting good advice from my local transmission shop. Again, the cost between a single clutch and triple clutch converter is about $500. To me the theory behind the triple clutch makes it sound much more efficient.

What concerns me is that I have found stories of the triple clutch converters shifting much more harsh and aggressive. While I want a good positive shift and lockup, I don't want it to get too violent for everyday driving.

That's exactly why I am saying single. A triple is good if you plan to substantially pump up the power, sled pull, or do the rest of the transmission (HD clutches, shift kit, valve body, etc.). If not, a triple is a waste of money, and will lock up so hard, you risk damaging other parts of the transmission that have not been upgraded. It's a mismatch.
My triple disc only locks up hard under high throttle input,but the rest of the shifts are hard also. During normal acceleration with under 2,000 rpm shift points it shifts smooth as silk into all gears.
john_bet
Explorer II
Jan 21, 2015
srt20 wrote:
john&bet wrote:
My '04.5 Dodge trans started slipping in first gear at 154k. Had it rebuilt at a very trusted local shop. They installed a Suncoast convertor. 20 miles west of Glendive, MT.(1400 miles and 5 days from home) with the 5er in tow I am sitting on the side of the road with a torn up convertor, front seal and front pump. The local shop sent a new convertor,front pump and seal to a Glendive shop. By Tue. noon I am headed home. Local shop paid me all of my extra expenses and pulled the trans again for a complete go thru. Al internals wer just fine and they put in a Gerand(sp). We did 7k+ miles this past summer out west with no problems. Good luck with your choice.

So what failed first?
The T/C.
wilber1
Explorer
Jan 21, 2015
dryfly wrote:
It appears I'm getting excessive slippage or "shear" in the TC. Adding additional cooling or manually shifting seems to me like putting a band-aid on the problem. I can only see these solutions in extreme situations when you have a transmission/TC set up to optimum and you are looking for the last ounce of performance, not as an initial solution.

If you want the torque converter to stay locked you will have to be making enough power to keep it locked, otherwise there are only two alternatives, the converter unlocks or you shift down to a gear where the converter can stay locked and maintain your speed.
ib516
Explorer II
Jan 21, 2015
dryfly wrote:
Thanks for the comments. Please understand my knowledge of transmissions and torque converters is limited and some of the stuff I've read is overwhelming.

I just know I've got to make some changes to bring the towing temps down and from everything I've read in the past, changing out to a good quality billet torque converter is the answer. I will not be doing the work myself obviously so I have to make sure I'm getting good advice from my local transmission shop. Again, the cost between a single clutch and triple clutch converter is about $500. To me the theory behind the triple clutch makes it sound much more efficient.

What concerns me is that I have found stories of the triple clutch converters shifting much more harsh and aggressive. While I want a good positive shift and lockup, I don't want it to get too violent for everyday driving.

That's exactly why I am saying single. A triple is good if you plan to substantially pump up the power, sled pull, or do the rest of the transmission (HD clutches, shift kit, valve body, etc.). If not, a triple is a waste of money, and will lock up so hard, you risk damaging other parts of the transmission that have not been upgraded. It's a mismatch.
time2roll
Nomad
Jan 21, 2015
I am not sure those temps are out of line for the hot side.
I think most compare return temperatures.
dryfly
Explorer
Jan 21, 2015
jmckelvy wrote:
dryfly wrote:
It appears I'm getting excessive slippage or "shear" in the TC. Adding additional cooling or manually shifting seems to me like putting a band-aid on the problem. I can only see these solutions in extreme situations when you have a transmission/TC set up to optimum and you are looking for the last ounce of performance, not as an initial solution.

How do you know this? What temperatures are you actually reading? Let us know that rather than just saying its "hot".

Hot is really subjective and newer transmissions with modern fluids can run substantially hotter just fine than some of us older guys remember from our early days. :)

I've seen as hot as 236 degrees on mine for short periods of time under heavy load. It normally runs about 15 to 20 degrees lower than the coolant temp.

OK, here are details: Using Castrol ATF+4 fluid changed at recommended intervals. Measuring fluid temp as it comes out of TC going to cooler (hottest place in the system).

Driving while pulling trailer in 4th gear, TC locked temp is ambient plus 80-90 degrees. Towing up extended incline temp can rise to 230-240 degrees pretty quick, 250 on occasion. In stop and go traffic 220-230 is common. This is with ambient temp in the eighties or cooler.

Truck is stock with OEM transmission pan.
srt20
Explorer
Jan 21, 2015
john&bet wrote:
My '04.5 Dodge trans started slipping in first gear at 154k. Had it rebuilt at a very trusted local shop. They installed a Suncoast convertor. 20 miles west of Glendive, MT.(1400 miles and 5 days from home) with the 5er in tow I am sitting on the side of the road with a torn up convertor, front seal and front pump. The local shop sent a new convertor,front pump and seal to a Glendive shop. By Tue. noon I am headed home. Local shop paid me all of my extra expenses and pulled the trans again for a complete go thru. Al internals wer just fine and they put in a Gerand(sp). We did 7k+ miles this past summer out west with no problems. Good luck with your choice.

So what failed first?
srt20
Explorer
Jan 21, 2015
ScottG wrote:
alboy wrote:
I had the same problem with my 06 towing a 15 k fiver in stop and go traffic.Id go with a good single,upgraded flex plate to stay away from harsh shifts.

How does a flex plate effect shifting?
Or did you mean TC?

It doesn't. Neither does the TC. You will feel when a TC locks up, but TC doesn't make a difference on shifting from 1-2, 2-3, etc.

A flex plate is another name for the flywheel. The flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft at the back of the engine. The TC is then bolted to the flex plate/flywheel. And the flex plate has nothing to do with shifting, TC lockup. It merely connects the engine to the TC.
jmckelvy
Explorer
Jan 21, 2015
dryfly wrote:
It appears I'm getting excessive slippage or "shear" in the TC. Adding additional cooling or manually shifting seems to me like putting a band-aid on the problem. I can only see these solutions in extreme situations when you have a transmission/TC set up to optimum and you are looking for the last ounce of performance, not as an initial solution.

How do you know this? What temperatures are you actually reading? Let us know that rather than just saying its "hot".

Hot is really subjective and newer transmissions with modern fluids can run substantially hotter just fine than some of us older guys remember from our early days. :)

I've seen as hot as 236 degrees on mine for short periods of time under heavy load. It normally runs about 15 to 20 degrees lower than the coolant temp.

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