Double stack receiver hitch

I'm running a Torklift SuperHitch on my truck:

I use the Torklift Superhitch Magnum, good for 30k. No worries with the hitch, I got my setup to eliminate flex (which I believe was causing some extra bounce). I have a Torklift double stinger for my WDH that fits into the receiver so no room for the bike rack. I like to be able to open my tailgate so bike rack on receiver does not work for me. I am getting ready to order a front receiver hitch from etrailer or Amazon to put the bike rack up front. I may mock it up using my daughters bike rack and block it about where it would be with a front receiver hitch and see if I would like the bikes up front.

Thanks bobndot. The TC chart was pretty helpful. I thought it was pretty interesting that the hitch is rated with a standard tow bar but that the calculations for reducing hitch capacity with an extender is measured from the end of the receiver. Looking at the graph it is a fairly steady increase per 2" from 18" to 22". 50 pounds per 2" reduction. My standard tow bar probably sets my ball 6" from the end of the receiver. They don't show anything under 18" so I'm not sure if less than that is meaningless because it's so close to where the ball is on a standard tow bar or they just didn't chart it.

The only extension info I know of is from TC section. The formulas would work on any vehicle as far as I know.

http://www.visualsc.com/hitch_calc.htm

below is another rvnet thread on extensions for some general info.


https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25167213/print/true.cfm

I don't have a formula but I'm not sure that any hitch manufacturer knows exactly what receiver adapter we are going to put in or if it has a drop or not, but those things definitely put different leverages on the hitch receiver.
One thing I noticed when a friend used one of those adapters, he didn't have room to unhitch his trailer until the bike rack was removed as there wasn't enough room to raise the tongue off the ball without hitting the bike rack above it. That of course could depend on the double receiver adapter used and what the design of the bike rack or tongue locking mechanism might be.

The Superhitch seems like a little bit of overkill. Curt makes a tow bar with a 2"receiver mounted on it for bike racks that only makes the tow bar bout 6" longer. It's a $50 tow bar but I wouldn't think 6" should make much difference. Curt doesn't list any cautions about extra stress on the hitch.

not sure how much you want to spend on this, but if you have a truck and you are considering changing the hitch receiver, you may want to look at a superhitch, it has dual receivers built into the hitch.

I looked at the hitch this weekend and no broken welds but I'm thinking of upgrading it just to be safe. I looked at a double hitch today and it moves the ball out about 11 inches. I have read that using a hitch extender lowers the weight rating of the hitch. Does anyone have a formula to calculate how much? Length has to be a factor somehow. A 2 foot extender seems it would have more effect than a 1 ft extender.

Dual hitches

I used one many moons ago for a light cargo trailer and a bike rack . As long as you keep within the specs, it works fine as long as you do not take too much off the front wheels of the TV (tow veh).
However it helps to have a TV with some beef in the rear to haul that weight beyond the rear bumper. If it sags and you plan to continue to use the combo, air bags will make it ride level and might be worth the investment.

One other point. I had to change my OEM hitch on an 04 Silverado because they were weak and rust was an issue. Just check your hitch to make sure its in good shape after 15 yrs of road salt.

I,m using one with a bike rack and a toad, no problem.