dual alternators
I see Superduties have dual alternators listed as an option. Anyone have this setup? Do you like it? And how are the loads separated? Thanks.
Forum Discussion
trail-explorer,
Sorry, hadn't check back on this thread.
Answer in detail as to wiring etc:
My wires (+ and -) are #2 gauge fine strand welder cable. They go from the Duramax dual alternator junction connection to a 80 amp slide switch first and then to an 80 amp starter solenoid which is activated by the truck's key ignition system with a wire to the fuse box and then the alternator current goes thru an 80 amp marine HD fuse before going into the same gauge plastic sheathed cables going along the truck frame and up into the rear bed to another 80 amp marine fuse and the junction connection stainless wingnuts on well insulated 5/16" brass studs. Several HD wire ties hold the cables tight to the truck's frame.
Also have a lighted toggle switch mounted on the bottom of the left side of the IP so I can turn the alternative alternator current system on or off with the starter solenoid when driving if desired.
In the truck bed under the side rail at the top is where the wingnut connections (separated approx. 6" on individual thick nylon about 1-1/2" wide X 2-1/2" long and about 1" thick insulating blocks) and are located so they are up out of the way and very unlikely to be shorted out by something but still easy to reach.
From there, the same size copper cables go to 2 group 31 12V deep cycle batteries below in the space between the wheel well and the front of the bed. Easily clear even the Lance TC when we load it on including the plywood cover I made to cover and conceal the batteries and keep weather off them. Always use both + and - cables for high amps! Fine strand copper because it bends freely repeatedly without fatigue or breaking.
2 wire cables connected to the TC battery thru a sealed hole into the TC battery compartment is easily connected to the 2 brass studs so there are 3 equal batteries to power the 11-1/2' TC and its 1500 watt inverter.
When the 5h wheel is used, I connect the same size cables from the 5th wheel batteries thru an HD marine 250 amp rotary barrel switch to the brass studs in the truck bed. 5 more of the same batteries are in the front compartments of the 5th wheel and plus the 2 in the bed gives 7 larger 225 minute draw at 23 amps capacity and all recharged by the trucks alternators or the converter or even the Honda gen on the back of the 5th wheel if or when needed or desired.
In the 5th wheel, I have a mounted 2500 watt inverter with a remote control to operate inside the 5th wheel. The inverter is on a totally separate 15 amp AC wiring circuit for the inverter use with 6 mounted duplex outlets in around the inside and one outside in the fridge rear access door. One duplex has a neon indicator bulb I added to the cover near the bottom area of the fridge so it's plain to see if the inverter is on or off.
Created this system back in the 1990's on one rig and then moved it to our new ordered Duramax and it works fabulous still over 20 years since first made. Electric power both AC and DC is silent and therefore NO noise when making coffee or running the microwave or the toaster etc. 7 batteries at 225 min each having a 23 amp draw = 1575 minutes capability and can recharge so quick and easy 3 different ways! Turn any of the system on or off at several locations and all is fused too.
Fridge quits running on gas or out of gas? No problem, just mover the AC plug over to the inverter outlet 4" away. Always have plenty of AC when not on shore power or running a generator for days if desired at a time.
So easy to make the system and not very expensive and your labor is free. You do have to get off the couch and put the remote down though!
What's not to like?
Sorry, hadn't check back on this thread.
Answer in detail as to wiring etc:
My wires (+ and -) are #2 gauge fine strand welder cable. They go from the Duramax dual alternator junction connection to a 80 amp slide switch first and then to an 80 amp starter solenoid which is activated by the truck's key ignition system with a wire to the fuse box and then the alternator current goes thru an 80 amp marine HD fuse before going into the same gauge plastic sheathed cables going along the truck frame and up into the rear bed to another 80 amp marine fuse and the junction connection stainless wingnuts on well insulated 5/16" brass studs. Several HD wire ties hold the cables tight to the truck's frame.
Also have a lighted toggle switch mounted on the bottom of the left side of the IP so I can turn the alternative alternator current system on or off with the starter solenoid when driving if desired.
In the truck bed under the side rail at the top is where the wingnut connections (separated approx. 6" on individual thick nylon about 1-1/2" wide X 2-1/2" long and about 1" thick insulating blocks) and are located so they are up out of the way and very unlikely to be shorted out by something but still easy to reach.
From there, the same size copper cables go to 2 group 31 12V deep cycle batteries below in the space between the wheel well and the front of the bed. Easily clear even the Lance TC when we load it on including the plywood cover I made to cover and conceal the batteries and keep weather off them. Always use both + and - cables for high amps! Fine strand copper because it bends freely repeatedly without fatigue or breaking.
2 wire cables connected to the TC battery thru a sealed hole into the TC battery compartment is easily connected to the 2 brass studs so there are 3 equal batteries to power the 11-1/2' TC and its 1500 watt inverter.
When the 5h wheel is used, I connect the same size cables from the 5th wheel batteries thru an HD marine 250 amp rotary barrel switch to the brass studs in the truck bed. 5 more of the same batteries are in the front compartments of the 5th wheel and plus the 2 in the bed gives 7 larger 225 minute draw at 23 amps capacity and all recharged by the trucks alternators or the converter or even the Honda gen on the back of the 5th wheel if or when needed or desired.
In the 5th wheel, I have a mounted 2500 watt inverter with a remote control to operate inside the 5th wheel. The inverter is on a totally separate 15 amp AC wiring circuit for the inverter use with 6 mounted duplex outlets in around the inside and one outside in the fridge rear access door. One duplex has a neon indicator bulb I added to the cover near the bottom area of the fridge so it's plain to see if the inverter is on or off.
Created this system back in the 1990's on one rig and then moved it to our new ordered Duramax and it works fabulous still over 20 years since first made. Electric power both AC and DC is silent and therefore NO noise when making coffee or running the microwave or the toaster etc. 7 batteries at 225 min each having a 23 amp draw = 1575 minutes capability and can recharge so quick and easy 3 different ways! Turn any of the system on or off at several locations and all is fused too.
Fridge quits running on gas or out of gas? No problem, just mover the AC plug over to the inverter outlet 4" away. Always have plenty of AC when not on shore power or running a generator for days if desired at a time.
So easy to make the system and not very expensive and your labor is free. You do have to get off the couch and put the remote down though!
What's not to like?
