BenK wrote:
Here is an image of how it eats metal. To then undermine the gasket
This is how the 'O' ring portion of the gasket moves and that is both
the stupid re-design of the intake manifold bolts. No longer square
with the sandwich, but at an angle that is now square to the overhead
automated torque wrench head. It was changed to accommodate that robotic
torque head....why the 16 inch pound torque. To keep it from
rolling the 'O' ring as the sandwich slides together. Anyone who has
ever designed something with an 'O' ring, that is a no-no
This one shows the gelatinous, acidic globule of DeathCool sticking
to the gasket/'O' ring
Over at my Suburban forum. We discussed this and formed many opinions
and fixes as we went through the forensics. Bottom line was to have
either a boss or an insert to keep the sandwich from sliding and allow
a higher torque. This is an image of GM's fix about 4 years after we
discussed that fix. Note that the gasket no longer has an 'o' ring
and is hard plastic with a boss poking into a mating hole in the manifold
I still dislike DeathCool, but resigned to it, as American Green is
going away. It's price is now par with DeathCool.
Not just DeathCool (DexCool), but any of the OATs and HOATs. American
Green uses silica to plate a protective coating in a couple hundred
miles. OATs and HOATs must strip the metal surfaces clean and then coat
with an organic (don't know what it is, yet). That takes up to a couple
of thousand miles. PLUS O2 (air) in the mixture will react with both
the acid (that 'A') and organic (that 'O') of OATs and HOATs
Since acid etched metal clean...there is now metal in some form floating
around in suspension. Metal and conductive or more conductive than
American Green. Conductive in a closed system that is surrounded by
electrical components/systems/etc.
This creates a potential battery for galvanic corrosion. Even non-conductive
surfaces will get eaten. This image is of the insides of a radiator
hose cut open to show how it was eaten by DeathCool
http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/images/DEX/Deteriorating_Hose.jpg
This is the radiator core that I talked about acidic globals sticking
to the tubes during a cooling phase where they precipitate out of
suspension. To both plug and rot it from the inside
http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/images/DEX/HeaderTankMud.jpg
Why most 'good' radiator shops will check the condition with a DVM
Digital Volt Meter. They can measure several volts and the more the
worse it is and you will find the above when opening it up.
My current AC & Radiator shop is not my main. The main one is from
high school days. His dad retired and buddy took over the business.
Then one day he told me he was retiring. The new OATs/HOATs increased
his business many time over and allowed him to buy a lake front house
up at Clear Lake. Said the dealers send all their AD & Radiator work
and DeathCool (we both coined that) allowed him to hire 3 new mechanics
The new owner is a jackass...I know more than that guy... :R
Feel so lucky to have found the current guy
Problem is and this has been discussed in length on the LS boards, some of the photos you have posted are a combination of a dex failure with stop leak, Stop leak is horrible stuff. Dex also gels up when mixed with the incorrect fluid or air is introduced into the system.
If you look at the systems with a pressurized overflow they have not suffered the fate of the non-pressurized overflow cars.
The LS based cars like the 4th gen Camaro and Firebird do not have the problem even though they have a traditional radiator cap with non-pressurized overflow, dry intake helps, but they were not the only cars to use dex and not suffer. The 2.2 and other ECOTEC cars did not have the problem either. These cars didn't have the problem even when ran low. This is because the highest point in the system is the radiator. In the cars with the problem the intake is the highest point in the system.
A poor gasket, poor maintenance and the original Dex Cool formula, generally are what contribute to the failures.
Most radiator fluids will pit metal when left too long. Traditional green does it also.
