At max boost, the effective displacement of the 3.5L Ecoboost just about doubles. So it is essentially moving the same amount of air that a 7.0L N/A engine would. Since air dictates the amount of fuel being added in a gasoline engine, it will add enough fuel to keep the air/fuel ratio around 14.7:1 plus or minus up to 2.5 mass of air.
The turbos on the 3.5L are made for low end power(with emissions) and start to loose their breath after 3,500 rpm especially by the time you hit peak horsepower. This is why it has way more power/torque than all half ton V8's(even the GM 6.2L) at low rpms between around 1,700 and 3,500 rpm, but it does not have higher peak horsepower numbers compared to other V8's that start to push more air as rpms increase.
OP, if you want to get better fuel mileage in the Ecoboost, try dropping it down a gear to pull it around 4,000 rpm or so. The problem you may have is that it is at too low of an rpm using more boost and fuel to move the load. It sounds backwards, but it works. I have done it in my old Ecoboost. It also works on my Cummins. Even though peak torque is at 1,600, it is more efficient pulling a load at higher rpms between 1,800 and 2,200 rpm.
Some people may say to drive it and let the computer do the rest. Well, the fuel mapping and shift points on your truck are generic and apply to many different scenarios. There is no way to tune the shift points for every hill, every trailer, or every situation. This is where the experience of the driver comes into play or you can just have it custom tuned for how you use your truck.