Economical WD hitch ?

Economical:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-hitch/10000-lb-capacity-weight-distributing-hitch-system-67649.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/trailer-sway-control-kit-96462.html

Read the reviews before you decide. The WD hitch seems OK. The anti sway needs different self tapping screws but, it's economical. Many years ago, when we started camping we had never even heard of weight distributing equipment, made for some white knuckle moments. I have pulled a TT thousands of miles with out any of that stuff. It sucks. The WD and antisway are awesome things to have and make life much more comfortable. I wouldn't dare tow without the WD at the very least.

The cost of the hitch is not necessarily related to the quality or efficacy.

The classic Eaz-Lift hitch design is about the least expensive hitch on the market today. The Eaz-Lift is the original weight-transfer hitch as I recall, yet it is still in production after 50 or so years. Its eloquently simple yet effective design often is still the choice of such experts as the Can-Am Airstream dealer in Canada who is famous for making superior towing rigs out of light tow vehicles.

It doesn't take expensive hitches to get the job done; just proven, effective ones.

We had an off-brand WDH and worked just fine. I've got a Blue Ox now and it works awesome.

To the question about "economical"...you've got a camper that costs thousands, being pulled by an automobile that costs thousands. For the sake of keeping the two attached, please don't skimp on the connection between the two. A WDH performs several functions that will make towing safer and more enjoyable for the ride and reduce stress on your vehicle. Get a quality brand that suits your needs. Most of the good ones are also upgradable so you can upgrade your camper down the road without buying a new hitch, just new bars to match.

I'm partial to Reese but the Equalizer seems to be the most popular. I'm sure that's for good reasons.

I have used the equalizer hitch since 2005 and never disconnected the sway control portion until I am disconnecting from my TV. It sounds as if other brands are capable to do the same.

For many years I used the Equalizer Hitch www.equalizerhitch.com . No friction sway bars to deal with. Backed up into our spot without issue. Great hitch thats well proven.

I'm using just the plain, probably the cheapest Husky hitch they make with two friction anti sway bars and have never in the eight years that I've had this rig ever removed the anti sway bars and believe me when I back into my drive way it's a 90 degree turn and I have to jack knife it so the tires can slide around the turn. If the bars are put on right they don't have to be removed, you just have too make sure they or installed perfectly.

I use a Blue Ox sway pro with good results.

SoundGuy wrote:
I'll repeat - WHY are we even talking about weight distribution when this has nothing to do with weight distribution and everything to do with standalone friction sway bars? :h

Westcoasting wrote:
Maybe you should quit acting like your answers are the only relevant ones. Trolling again....

Instead of foolishly wasting your time in a feeble attempt to diss me why not use it instead to contribute to the conversation to help others better understand this isn't a weight distribution issue but rather is a potential concern backing up when using separate friction sway control. ;)

SoundGuy wrote:
I'll repeat - WHY are we even talking about weight distribution when this has nothing to do with weight distribution and everything to do with standalone friction sway bars? :h

colliehauler wrote:
Because the title of the thread and the info they requested. Where in the OP'S thread does it state it only applies to friction bars?

That's the point ... the OP incorrectly identified weight distribution as being the issue when in fact it's the sway control equipment he would want to be concerned about.

I use a Reese dual cam (no friction bar) and have bent a bracket jacknifing the trailer. No ditch level ground.

And that may well be the Reese Dual Cam's Achilles Heel ... in the case I witnessed failure was definitely because of the vertical angle between the tow vehicle and trailer, in your case you're saying that's not the case. Regardless, other Dual Cam owners have reported this same problem so it well may be a basic design issue with this system. I've never owned one so I couldn't say for sure but I did run an Equal-i-zer for 6 years and never removed the spring bars at any time, for any reason other than we were staying for a few days and I'd unhitch completely. On many overnight stays when we were intending to head out early the next day I'd never remove the system at all, no concern ever about backing up with this WD system engaged. Progress Mfg makes no mention at all of disengaging the Equal-i-zer before backing up, saying only in the installation manual - "Disengage weight distribution before towing or backing the trailer where there is a significant transition in grade which puts excessive strain on the hitch, e.g. backing from a flat street to a steep uphill driveway." That makes sense to me BUT disengaging it just because the truck and trailer may be on an angle laterally does not, nor apparently does it to Progress. ;)