Forum Discussion

centracom's avatar
centracom
Explorer
Jul 28, 2013

Electrical problem. HELP!!!!!!!!

I own a 2012 Jayco Jay Feather 242 TT that is still under the manufacturers warranty. I also have a Route 66 seven year warranty I purchased from the dealer.

Problem: While dry camping at a nascar race I noticed when I shut the generator off, I lost all power to the trailer. It was at the end of the trip so I decided to try and diagnose the problem when I returned home. After returning home I also noticed that the trailer battery did not take a charge from my tow vehicle during the ride home. I checked the fuse panel and did not find and blown fuses or tripped breakers. Next I checked the battery compartment (single battery) and found that one of the two wires connected to the positive side of the battery had a blown inline fuse. I assume that one positive wire is for charging and the other positive wire is the feed from the battery to the trailer. Am I correct? Also the rubber housing and fuse were almost completely melted. After replacing the inline rubber housing and 30a fuse I decided to check the battery. I pulled poth caps off the battery and discovered the positive side was completely dry. I filled the battery with water and took it to autozone to be tested. After they let it charge overnight they determined it was only holding a 6v charge and labled it as bad. I took the battery home reinstalled. It and it blew another 30a inline fuze within about 15 second. Tried a third fuze and it blew. Also the positive wire coming from the trailer to the battery was very hot on the trailer side of the fuse. I should note that during this time the trailer was plugged into 120 shore power.

I dont know what to do next! I am afraid to buy a new battery in the chance that I may destroy it if there is some other electrical problem. Im hesitant to take it to the dealership just to be told its a battery or a converter that probably isn't covered under Jaycos "unbeatable warranty". If it is the converter should I demand the dealership to replace the battery since their product fried my battery which is still under Interstates warranty.

I know I have alot of loaded questions but I appreciate any help.

- Left in the dark

6 Replies

  • krobbe's avatar
    krobbe
    Explorer
    Jul 28, 2013
    First thing you need to do is replace the battery with one suitable for RV's. The bad one is drawing too much current from your charger/converter and blowing the main line fuse. Fuses and breakers protect the wiring from becoming too hot and igniting it's insulation and surroundings. The cause of a blown fuse and tripped breaker should be identified before replacing or resetting.
    Second thing you should do is measure the voltage at the terminals of the new battery after installation and plugged in to shore power to verify there is only 13.5 to 14.5 volts dc going to it.
    Third thing is to not let the battery voltage drop below 12.00Vdc or 50%. Check this when not plugged in or with the breaker for the converter/charger turned off.
    Here is a 12v battery voltage State of Charge chart:
    12.6+ = 100%
    12.5 = 90%
    12.42 = 80%
    12.32 = 70%
    12.20 = 60%
    12.06 = 50%
    11.9 = 40%
    11.75 = 30%
    11.58 = 20%
    11.31 = 10%
    10.5 = 0%
    The fourth thing is: check your battery water levels every couple weeks and once a week during high usage and only add distilled water. Water with minerals in it will greatly shorten the life.

    What generator are you using to dry camp with? Many cheaper generators are not suitable for operation of electronic equipment like converter/chargers, microwave, tv/stereos, etc. They create dirty power and unstable voltages.
  • abc40kids's avatar
    abc40kids
    Explorer
    Jul 28, 2013
    That little wire with the fuse that hooks to your positive post on your battery at least on my camper is for the carbon monoxide detector. Before I hauled off to the dealer I would put me a new battery in and see what happens. Couple years ago I let the water get down in the battery and it wouldn't hold a charge, had to replace it.
  • Bucky_Badger's avatar
    Bucky_Badger
    Explorer
    Jul 28, 2013
    First you need to try another battery, and MAKE SURE you have it hooked up correctly

    Does you TT work ok when plugged in at home?
  • ScottG's avatar
    ScottG
    Nomad
    Jul 28, 2013
    Why did you re-install a battery that's been labeled as defective and only has 6 volts in it?
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    Jul 28, 2013
    It certainly sounds like a shorted cell in the battery. The converter should only put 13.6VDC unless it is in smart-mode charge mode where it would put out 14.4VDC. You might want to check the output voltage of the converter.

    If your trailer does not have the smart-mode converter setup then the constant battery charge of the 13.6VDC will definitely boil out your battery fluids over time. I checked my battery fluids at least every two weeks when I had the single mode converter/charger unit.

    I am guessing you was running the whole trailer being connected with the shore power cable plugged directly into the generator. This would be no different then being plugged into a shore power conenction.

    I suspect a failed converter/charger putting out more than 13.6VDC or you have boiled out your battery fluids for extended use of the 13.6VDC and not checking your battery on a regular basis.

    I did get a chuckle out of your ROUTE 66 Warrenty. ROUTE 66 which ran from Chicago to Calif hasn't been around for many years now. Only a short section between AZ and CA still exists I think... I got a picture of me standing near a RT66 sign in AZ outside of Flagstaff AZ.

    hope this helps...
    Roy Ken
  • RedRocket204's avatar
    RedRocket204
    Explorer
    Jul 28, 2013
    If you have not made any changes to your TT, you are experiencing an issue that should be covered under warranty. The selling dealer should work out the details even if the warranty used to cover parts is a manufacturer problem.

    I would get that trailer to the dealer asap. Remember, you do need battery for your emergency braking to work in the event the trailer becomes detached while towing. Make sure and call the dealer and ask for their advice.

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