So after almost 3 years of researching trailers, I finally made the purchase. I still have time to modify a few things if needed. Here is my setup:2014 Ram 2500 6.42016 Jayco 27BHSMy upgrades include elite package, 50 amp service,15k btu AC, and hide a bed. What I cannot decide on is the thermal package which encloses the underbelly. Now I wont really be doing any cold weather camping less than 30 degrees. The option is about 450.00. My concern is not enclosing it will allow critters easier access into my trailer. The dealer says if I enclose it and they do get inside I will have bigger problems due to the work of dropping the underbelly. I would appreciation any comments or suggestions about my setup. This is my first travel trailer. Considering I have the 2500 I should be able to really load up the trailer and truck without any weight worries correct?

My understanding is it will improve your mileage. It will make servicing any components under the floor more difficult. I would prefer it enclosed though. If by chance you did get caught when the temperature dropped below freezing you'll be glad you did.

If the thermal package is only the under belly cover, I'd probably skip it. I would think there would be added insulation throughout the trailer also, which would be money well spent, even to help cool the trailer. You need to know exactly what this thermal pkg involves.That is a nice truck, and should handle the trailer, and gear just fine.Jerry

borninblue wrote:What I cannot decide on is the thermal package which encloses the underbelly. Now I wont really be doing any cold weather camping less than 30 degrees.I've owned trailers such as my KZ Spree with an enclosed underbelly, those such as my current rig which has an open underbelly, and much prefer open ... you will too when the day comes you have to make a repair or run some additional wiring or plumbing, etc. ;) Others may disagree but between 30F and 110F I haven't noticed any difference an enclosed underbelly might have on maintaining a comfortable interior temperature and it certainly has no bearing on fuel mileage despite what trailer manufacturers may claim. With many trailer models you don't have any choice anyway as the manufacturer has already made that decision for you but certainly if it was an option I had to pay $450 for - no way. :(

What kind of underbelly material are they talking about? Is it the nylon tarp material with insulation stuck to the inside, or is it the corrugated cardboard-plastic type with insulation stuck to the inside? I've had both, and perfer the corrugated cardboard plastic type as opposed to the tarp style.Getting that cover on it will save a lot of dirt from kicking up on your frames, plumbing, wires, and everything under there. Much easier to simply spray down with a sprayer on a garden hose, then attempting to clean the frame, wires, and everything else. Insulation value? Uhh? who knows. My trailer claims to have the "Arctic Package". All I know is, a lot of heat goes under there that I wish went up inside the living space of the camper.I still prefer the underside to be covered.

Previous HTT had an open underbelly, the current TT is enclosed.I'd rather have the open underbelly.

Enclosed Underbelly or Not | Good Sam Community

Huntindog
Explorer
Jan 19, 2016
LarryJM wrote:
Huntindog wrote:
I did similar to what Larry did. I took a different tact on the insulation. I used a 1" thick hard insulation (I don't remember the name, but Home Depot has it) rated @ R7. It went directly above the coroplast reflectix and on the insides of the framerails. Basically I built a cooler inder the TT floor. Then I enlarged and added another heat vent. I used heat tape and insulation on all water lines. It really didn't cost all that much, but it was a labor intensive, but fun project. It should be good to 40 below now. I haven't had the opportunity to test it though.. I am SURE that it is much improved over stock.

I believe that enclosed is a worthwhile option. It offers some benefit and can be used as a base for upgrades if desired.

Actually, I did all that work in that album back in early 2009 before I think you even had your current trailer and did my insulation very similiar to what you did, but I did not put any under any of my tanks since there wasn't enough space under them and I wanted as much warm air as there was from the ducts to circulate around them.

Here is a pic of the insulation at the rear of my trailer where the holding tanks end and it just lays on the underbelly supports from frame rail to frame rail and is not even taped together so I could slide it in/out in sections. I estimated I insulated approx close to 80% of the underbelly area this way.

Larry

Yes I used your pics as a starting point when I did mine.. Exactly what we each did is not nearly as important as the fact that we both did something. And we both now have a better TT for it.
alexleblanc
Explorer
Jan 19, 2016
DutchmenSport wrote:
What kind of underbelly material are they talking about? Is it the nylon tarp material with insulation stuck to the inside, or is it the corrugated cardboard-plastic type with insulation stuck to the inside? I've had both, and perfer the corrugated cardboard plastic type as opposed to the tarp style.

Getting that cover on it will save a lot of dirt from kicking up on your frames, plumbing, wires, and everything under there. Much easier to simply spray down with a sprayer on a garden hose, then attempting to clean the frame, wires, and everything else.

Insulation value? Uhh? who knows. My trailer claims to have the "Arctic Package". All I know is, a lot of heat goes under there that I wish went up inside the living space of the camper.

I still prefer the underside to be covered.

I had that tarp style on my previous Wildwood and the dealer had to fix a wiring issue, needless to say I spent 2 summers fixing constant tearing and peeling of that **** tarp. In my experience the enclosed underbelly it not hard to access and most higher end models come this way new.
goducks10
Explorer
Jan 19, 2016
borninblue wrote:
I understand, I am talking about sealing off easy access points.

I used some spray foam in a can. Doesn't take much as it expands.
borninblue
Explorer
Jan 19, 2016
So what would I really need to get under there for? If there was an issue with the holding tanks or water damage? How often does that really happen?
LarryJM
Explorer II
Jan 19, 2016
Huntindog wrote:
I did similar to what Larry did. I took a different tact on the insulation. I used a 1" thick hard insulation (I don't remember the name, but Home Depot has it) rated @ R7. It went directly above the coroplast reflectix and on the insides of the framerails. Basically I built a cooler inder the TT floor. Then I enlarged and added another heat vent. I used heat tape and insulation on all water lines. It really didn't cost all that much, but it was a labor intensive, but fun project. It should be good to 40 below now. I haven't had the opportunity to test it though.. I am SURE that it is much improved over stock.

I believe that enclosed is a worthwhile option. It offers some benefit and can be used as a base for upgrades if desired.

Actually, I did all that work in that album back in early 2009 before I think you even had your current trailer and did my insulation very similiar to what you did, but I did not put any under any of my tanks since there wasn't enough space under them and I wanted as much warm air as there was from the ducts to circulate around them.

Here is a pic of the insulation at the rear of my trailer where the holding tanks end and it just lays on the underbelly supports from frame rail to frame rail and is not even taped together so I could slide it in/out in sections. I estimated I insulated approx close to 80% of the underbelly area this way.

Larry
camperforlife
Explorer
Jan 19, 2016
Some Polar packages go further than just sealing the bottom. Many of the Keystone products with the Polar Package states "expands your camping season with an enclosed and heated underbelly. Not only will you have improved aerodynamics, but your valves, tanks and water lines are all protected. We also add upgraded insulation to our slide-out floors to control the hot and cold exchange." as per their brochure
borninblue
Explorer
Jan 19, 2016
Will do, the trailer is on order so I cannot do that as of yet.
Huntindog
Explorer
Jan 14, 2016
borninblue wrote:
I understand, I am talking about sealing off easy access points.

Crawl under it and take a look. Improve wherever you can or think is necessary... Your TT is not mine.. Different issues WILL be found.
borninblue
Explorer
Jan 14, 2016
I understand, I am talking about sealing off easy access points.
Huntindog
Explorer
Jan 14, 2016
borninblue wrote:
With the open underbelly is there anything underneath the trailer that I will need to seal up with foam to prevent mice and other critters from entering the trailer? Or is it pretty much sealed up underneath there to the floor?

I don't think it is possible to mouseproof a TT. Thae darco underneath it can be easily chewed thru. The best defense IMO is to rid the property of pests.

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