Equalizer brand WD hitch Torque Specs

SoundGuy wrote:
Your choice though - the Equal-i-zer is certainly a proven system but it is also a much older design that could really benefit from a major updating to overcome several of it's many flaws.

AngryBert-63 wrote:
Many flaws?

Aside from being a bit noisy, and coming from a Reese Dual Cam I KNOW hitch noise, name a few of these MANY flaws you're privy to.

Privy too? Hardly, as none of this is a secret to anyone who has owned an Equal-i-zer ...

The Equal-i-zer is arguably the noisiest WD system on the planet and although the racket can be damped down somewhat pretty well everyone will know when an EQ is entering the campground. :E

Metal on metal means wear, particularly the L pins which over time do distort, sometimes quite noticeably. Head sockets begin to show noticeable wear over time as well. :M

Head angle is adjusted by adding / subtracting washers but that requires pulling the head apart by loosening / removing the shank bolts which then must later be re-installed and re-torqued ... do this several times over and it gets old really quick. :M

The hitch ball cannot have a shank any longer than 2-3/8" and tightening requires the use of a thin wall socket and a torque wrench capable of at least 430 ft-lbs, neither of which many would have in their home workshop. Fortunately this only needs to be done once but if these can't be borrowed then both are a costly investment for a one time event. :M

Likewise, the shank bolts must be torqued to 320 ft-lbs, again with a torque wrench many wouldn't have in their home workshop. Unlike the hitch ball though those shank bolts do have to be torqued, loosened, an re-torqued every time the head angle or head height is changed because of a change in tow vehicle, trailer, or even significant changes in trailer load. Been there, done that many times myself with my own EQ. :M

Hey, no secrets ... it's ALL in the Equal-i-zer owner's manual. :R