Equalizer WD problems due to new tow vehicle

harley4275 wrote:
When you turn the jack you do this by turning the head not the base. I have done this to a barker and an lci . Each worked great for tailgate clearance .

Not necessarily ... the older UltraFab 3002 I owned a few years ago did allow rotating just the head, my current UltraFab 3502 does not. No doubt some other brands don't allow rotation of the head either, likewise there are some that have additional holes in the mounting plate that allow rotating of the entire jack. Unfortunately the OP hasn't told us just which tongue jack he has so whether the head could be rotated or not none of us can answer.

When you turn the jack you do this by turning the head not the base. I have done this to a barker and an lci . Each worked great for tailgate clearance .

rirish1 wrote:
I'm only 2 inches high.

That TT must seem really big to you. :B

I thought if I turned the power jack it would work. Unfortunately when I tried it the mounting bolts wouldn't line up. Mine is a triangle mounting plate not a circle.

I thought that if I was replacing the shank I might as well go to 2.5 inch. Seems like I can't get what I want commercially. The equalizer 18 inch length doesn't have the drop that I need. I will look at the Curt 17122.

How important is it to tow the TT level? I tend to be a perfectionist but the reality is I've been on several long trips and haven't had a problem. I'm only 2 inches high.

I use an Equal-i-zer 4 point WD system on my rig. My tow vehicle is in my signature below. The tail gate also touches the electric tongue jack.

Two ways to get around this. First is to turn the tongue jack 1/3 way around so the motor is out of the way of tail gate. I have not done this to my trailer yet (in 4 years), but I keep thinking someday I will. That's probably the easiest solution.

The other way to open the tail gate and not hit the jack is to lower the jack to the ground and let it lift the truck up, like when you are attaching the weight distribution bars. This will cause the angle of the truck and trailer to allow the tail gate to open all the way without hitting the electric jack.

Sometimes, if parked on just the right hill, or bump, or dip in the road or asphalt, the angle gets just right, the tail gate will open without hitting. But when it does, I just lower the jack and let it lift the truck end. This works pretty well, and I suppose I've gotten into this lazy mode, thus the reason I've not turned the jack yet and repositioned in the 3 holes on the A-frame.

rirish1 wrote:
I have the WDH on the lowest possible holes yet the trailer still sits about 2" nose up. Another annoying problem is the tailgate won't open now (it hits the power jack).

Their standard shank is 90-02-4100, which is a 2" shank, 12" long x 3" drop, 7" rise. It looks like it's 8" long from hole-to-hole.

They have a 90-02-4900, which is 2-1/2" shank, 12" long x 6" drop, 10" rise. What you want, except for length.

Curt makes a 17122, which is 2" shank, should have more than enough drop, and is 14" long hole-to-hole, so you'd pick up 6" in length. It's rated for 15K. What you want, except not 2 1/2.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP54977.html

You may be best off with a reducer to get you the length.. Then stay 2"..

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapters/Brophy/HR26.html?feed=npn&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh_DTBRCTARIsABlT9MavQ3qKBNx-Fz-SPcQDhq2zlsOBNJXWBc6vjzEZKsxrhR2SZ6xDj4MaAmQBEALw_wcB