Forum Discussion

Miguel951's avatar
Miguel951
Explorer
Aug 14, 2023

Extension Hitch Question

Hello! Back again for assistance with my setup. With the camper on the truck, I'm 29" exactly from the center of the pin on the hitch to the door of the camper. The question is: what is the best way to get there?


-I'm ok with part of the trailer going under the camper, just need to remove the jack and install one that I can tilt in transit.
- I have a 2" hitch receiver
- Trailer is a 12' single axle, carrying a UTV that fits snugly in the trailer. Approximate tongue weight of 600lbs (but will be taking to scales soon to get the exact weight).
-I do have a weight distribution hitch that I can include, would prefer not to use it since I'm using airbags and height can vary. (even though I can be exact, I would prefer not to mess with it).

I've seen 18' extensions and a hitch insert that can get me to 24" but they are rated at 3500 LBS and TW 350 LBS. I've also seen a 16" hitch ball mount rated at 6k LBS (assuming 600 LBS TW).

If I use the 16" extension only here are the dimensions I would be left with, not sure how safe I can turn with this setup.

I can provide more information if needed.



  • "biggest concern to me is the trailer jack hitting the camper on a tight turn. Set it up and make a tight turn with a spotter to make sure you can corner as tight as you feel you will need to on the road without any part of the trailer hitting the camper "

    Exactly, that is my concern too. For me to do this mockup, I would need to go out and buy one of the systems and try it out ( feasible, not costly). Maybe start with the 16" ball hitch and buy a an extension to make up the difference.

    What I'm really concerned about using extensions are all the parts that add to weak points. What I would rather have is one single shaft that is both the extension and the ball. And where I can add chains and tensioners off the ball side to the outer part of the hitch on the truck. But it doesn't exist, I would need to have this custom-made or upgrade to a 2.5" hitch
  • wnjj- thank you for the response. The actual TW is probably over the manufacture rating. It's a 12' trailer w/ a 12' utv so it's snug. I used to bring it up the ramps in reverse (where it weighs the most) and towed great and straight both in my F150 & F250 ( it barely lowers the suspension on my F-150). To make this all work I'm going to be driving it forward to lower tongue weight

    UTV has a dryweight of 1,670 LBS (based on rumors 600-700 lbs in front and 900 lbs in rear). I just assume I'm close to the trailer gross. BTW: 12' trailers to haul around RZRs are pretty common. Ultimately decided I would take the risk with a single axle. I do have sensors on wheels for PSI and blowout monitoring.

    I didn't think about extending the front of the trailer. Not bad. I'm concerned about altering the trailer though and at that possible price point, maybe I should just buy the 2.5" hitch and the Reese 6K lbs/ 600 TW 24" extension so that I can more safely meet the ratings.
  • biggest concern to me is the trailer jack hitting the camper on a tight turn. Set it up and make a tight turn with a spotter to make sure you can corner as tight as you feel you will need to on the road without any part of the trailer hitting the camper
  • wnjj's avatar
    wnjj
    Explorer II
    The 600# tongue weight seems plenty high for a single axle trailer. Can you load the UTV further back to reduce that, making the 350# rated extension an option?

    What is the approximate total loaded trailer weight?

    Alternatively you could extend the tongue on the trailer which would not only move the jack back it would also lower the tongue weight.
  • Heres what it looks like with the 18" extension and the hitch for a total of 24"