F250 Rear Axle Weight Rating with 20" wheels
Does anybody have a 2011+ F250 with 20" wheels that they can check the rear axle rating on the b-pillar sticker? I found that the F350 SRW door sticker shows 7000 lb with 20's but want to know if the...
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Don't fixate on the camper package if you are towing a trailer and not hauling an actual camper. The only thing about the camper package that you can't get in any other configuration with 20" wheels which will give the highest RAWR is the rear anti-sway bar. The factory sway bar is pretty weak at best anyway. For way less than $200 in parts, you can buy the factory setup from the parts department at your local dealer and bolt a rear anti-sway bar onto any truck that doesn't have it from the factory. A better option is to get a heavier setup from Hellwig.
As has been stated numerous times already, the Sterling 10.5 rear axle assembly used in both the F250 and F350 SRW trucks is one in the same. There are no separate part numbers for the axles between any of the SRW trucks either gas or diesel. Some people are never going to believe that and I've made peace with the fact that it is their problem not mine.
Personally if I were in the shoes of the OP and there was no major difference in the cost of either registration or insurance between a 250 and a 350, I would go with the 350 with 20" tire option for maximum payload and axle rating. It doesn't take much effort to swap the 250 rear spacer block into a 350 to reduce bed rail height by close to 2". I am a firm believer in buying the highest rated truck available in the class of truck that I am buying. That strategy has never caused me to trade a less than 2 year old truck in for more capacity.
As has been stated numerous times already, the Sterling 10.5 rear axle assembly used in both the F250 and F350 SRW trucks is one in the same. There are no separate part numbers for the axles between any of the SRW trucks either gas or diesel. Some people are never going to believe that and I've made peace with the fact that it is their problem not mine.
Personally if I were in the shoes of the OP and there was no major difference in the cost of either registration or insurance between a 250 and a 350, I would go with the 350 with 20" tire option for maximum payload and axle rating. It doesn't take much effort to swap the 250 rear spacer block into a 350 to reduce bed rail height by close to 2". I am a firm believer in buying the highest rated truck available in the class of truck that I am buying. That strategy has never caused me to trade a less than 2 year old truck in for more capacity.
