My factory 80W solar has never kept the battery charged when the camper sits for a couple of weeks. Not an issue now as I store it inside a hangar plugged in, but when I first got it and stored it in an outdoor RV lot I observed this. I've come to a point where I want more solar power anyway for camping in places without power which tend to be much quieter. Is put a multimeter on the regulator and it was showing 13.4 coming off of the panels, with the DC system (plugged into AC) at 13.9. The dealer tech told me when I got the camper that the CO2 alarm would outrun the solar, either he was right or I have a draw. I'm just wondering what other people have observed with factory solar systems.

80 watt may not be enough to keep your battery charged against vampire draws like the detector. An 80 watt panel getting 6 hours of sun should make 30 amps or so of power a day. The vampire draw is probably in the 24 amp/day range or less. Not always good sun though. I wouldn't want to rely on that in case of a couple cloudy days.Depending on how the system is wired you may be able to use the battery disconnect switch and have the solar still charging. If they have the SCC wired directly to the battery and not through the switch you can charge without the draw of the CO detector.

Yeah, I've learned that whatever they tell you, double it....I've the feeling that 'Solar' belongs in the 'Black Arts' category..No person likes the previous set up... and they have their own idea of what YOU need and how to set it up...again, double it... especially the wiring gauge...You need to figure out what you need and future use possibilities... or you end up rewiring, moving things around or running outta room...So, while the good ones, installers etc, might be and probably are expensive, they're more likely to set it up with something you can use...Good luck, may the "Force be with you..." hehehhh, fun in the Sun as they say..

“My factory 80W solar has never kept the battery charged when the camper sits for a couple of weeks.”My 30 watt solar system keeps the two T125s full indefinitely while in storage but the TT is completely cutoff. If all your loads are cut there’s something wrong with your solar system. Times two on fpoole’s “double” the size of the wire.

I'm less worried about it draining the batteries when it sits (because it stays plugged in now) and more concerned with it dying while camping. Granted I can always just fire up the generator, but that kinda ruins the serenity. I'm glad to hear that what I'm experiencing isn't abnormal, I just need to beef up the panel and wiring aspect of it all. Chances are technology has moved forward and the space that my 80W panel from 2007 takes up likely can provide a bit more with today's panels.

Two hundred solar watts is about the lowest I see on the road. Three hundred works for me. General rule is one solar watt per battery amp hour.

Factory Solar Question | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

GeoBoy
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
You will need a minimum of 160 watt panel.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Sep 02, 2019
Two hundred solar watts is about the lowest I see on the road. Three hundred works for me. General rule is one solar watt per battery amp hour.
Supercharged111
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
I'm less worried about it draining the batteries when it sits (because it stays plugged in now) and more concerned with it dying while camping. Granted I can always just fire up the generator, but that kinda ruins the serenity. I'm glad to hear that what I'm experiencing isn't abnormal, I just need to beef up the panel and wiring aspect of it all. Chances are technology has moved forward and the space that my 80W panel from 2007 takes up likely can provide a bit more with today's panels.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Sep 02, 2019
“My factory 80W solar has never kept the battery charged when the camper sits for a couple of weeks.”

My 30 watt solar system keeps the two T125s full indefinitely while in storage but the TT is completely cutoff. If all your loads are cut there’s something wrong with your solar system. Times two on fpoole’s “double” the size of the wire.
fpoole
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
Yeah, I've learned that whatever they tell you, double it....

I've the feeling that 'Solar' belongs in the 'Black Arts' category..
No person likes the previous set up... and they have their own idea of what YOU need and how to set it up...again, double it... especially the wiring gauge...

You need to figure out what you need and future use possibilities... or you end up rewiring, moving things around or running outta room...

So, while the good ones, installers etc, might be and probably are expensive, they're more likely to set it up with something you can use...

Good luck, may the "Force be with you..." hehehhh, fun in the Sun as they say..
work2much
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
80 watt may not be enough to keep your battery charged against vampire draws like the detector. An 80 watt panel getting 6 hours of sun should make 30 amps or so of power a day. The vampire draw is probably in the 24 amp/day range or less. Not always good sun though. I wouldn't want to rely on that in case of a couple cloudy days.

Depending on how the system is wired you may be able to use the battery disconnect switch and have the solar still charging. If they have the SCC wired directly to the battery and not through the switch you can charge without the draw of the CO detector.

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