Feel bounce in trailer when someone walk inside.

#1nobby wrote:

We Cant Wait wrote:
Before spending all sorts of money on this or that, go to your local junk yard and for about $5 each you can pick up a pair of scissor jacks to put under the frame between your wheels.

Genius.

While that in theory is an approach I would not recommend jacking on the equalizer bracket for those trailers with the normal spring type suspensions and for trailers with the torsion type suspensions many trailers have the tires so close together getting a sissors jack under the frame between the wheels might not be feasible. This issues is why I recommend the before and aft the axles on the frame which is doable regardless of suspension type.

Personally I don't like sissors type jacks since they have a lot of slop in them simply due to the design with all the pivot points and lack of stability in one plane. There is a reason that a normal jack stand (very similiar in design to the screw jackstands I use) are what is recommended to stabilize a vehicle when working under it. In fact you could use actual jack stands for my method of stabiliztion, but it would require cribbing to be able to set them properly since their vertical adjustment is not continuous, but in steps. Using actual jackstands would give "THE BEST" stabiliztion, but at the cost of complexity of use.

Larry

myredracer wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

Typical "response" I have come to expect on this forum concerning trailer bounce..

No need for expensive hardware, a simple jack or stand will do.

WOW MY HAT IS OFF TO YOU ... You are the ONLY ONE to actually understand and come to the CORRECT SOLUTION IMO of course.
Larry

I have read your posts on this topic in the past and how you treat others with disdane that don't agree with your opinion. If what you've done in your particular situation makes you happy, that's just peachy.

I already tried "a simple jack" in 4 locations and they did very little to reduce vertical movement or movement along the other two directional axes. I could say more but why bother except to say we have a set of 4 lightly used aluminum stacker jacks available to someone.

Simply trying "a simple jack" in 4 locations doesn't tell me anything and in fact tells me you really either did not read or did not understand "MY METHOD". Both the locations (i.e. correct distance in front and to the rear of each axle) and setting them correctly is imperative to get the proper results. You statement that they did little to reduce vertical movement demonstrates this failure to install and use them correctly. Almost w/o exception those only putting a pair of jacks close to one axle have reported an improvement and even in this thread this improvement has been called "greatly" so you are in the minority that has not seen some at least improvement which tells me you did something wrong and I bet are not willing to learn or correct where you failed in using these "extra" supports.

And your right I have my opinion and you have yours and there is nothing wrong with that even if our opinions are incorrect and I really don't believe your post rings true and is more than likely made just to be negative w/o offering any positive potential solution so "BOUNCE AWAY" while I will "SLEEP STEADY AND SOUND".

Larry

We Cant Wait wrote:
Before spending all sorts of money on this or that, go to your local junk yard and for about $5 each you can pick up a pair of scissor jacks to put under the frame between your wheels.

Genius.

Rest assure that by the time you have spent the money for the solutions, you will be used to the TT bounce. Spending money seems to speed up the acclamation process.

LarryJM wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

Typical "response" I have come to expect on this forum concerning trailer bounce..

No need for expensive hardware, a simple jack or stand will do.

WOW MY HAT IS OFF TO YOU ... You are the ONLY ONE to actually understand and come to the CORRECT SOLUTION IMO of course.
Larry

I have read your posts on this topic in the past and how you treat others with disdane that don't agree with your opinion. If what you've done in your particular situation makes you happy, that's just peachy.

I already tried "a simple jack" in 4 locations and they did very little to reduce vertical movement or movement along the other two directional axes. I could say more but why bother except to say we have a set of 4 lightly used aluminum stacker jacks available to someone.

Nosedive wrote:
I have a Coachmen FE 320BHDSLE. I added the scissor jacks just in front of the front axle and it made a huge difference in reducing the bounce. It didn't eliminate it but helped a lot.

You still have movement because you didn't do the same thing just behind the back axle so you only supported the suspension on one side. Do it on both sides of the axle(s) and your HUGE DIFFERENCE will become "ISSUE SOLVED".



Larry

Nosedive wrote:
I have a Coachmen FE 320BHDSLE. I added the scissor jacks just in front of the front axle and it made a huge difference in reducing the bounce. It didn't eliminate it but helped a lot.

Did the same thing, works well enough that other devices are not needed. Weak frames, regardless of length, need the center support.

I have a Coachmen FE 320BHDSLE. I added the scissor jacks just in front of the front axle and it made a huge difference in reducing the bounce. It didn't eliminate it but helped a lot.

Our 2016 Winnebago 30RESS was factory equipped with four electric stabilizers....they were 'ok' but we still had too much movement (according to my wife.....) so, I bought four scissor jacks, had them welded on each corner of the frame.....much, much better! Just be careful not to twist the frame too much when tightening everything up!

As previously noted, you will never eliminate all movement, but there is room for improvement!

Huntindog wrote:
For once I agree somewhat with Larry on this.
I do not like his approach though. I find the screw type jacks difficult to use... It is getting close to a permanent Mobile home type installation. Great for stability, but not so great for ease of use.
At least Larry does admit that even with his approach, not all movement is eliminated.

Every person will have to make their own decision on just how far they are willing to go to eliminate movement. If you want it rock solid, it can be done. But there will be compromises that need to be made in ease of mobility to achieve it. There is no right or wrong.
As always, it is your choice.

Well I have found that it takes close to zero difference in time in using the jack stands over the factory stab jacks that were on my trailer originally. On the movement, be careful and read closely what I said. The reason I still can have movement is if I'm not careful if walking around in the end of the trailer and that is there only because I know it exists ONLY because I CHOOSE not to try and stabilize that movement source NOT that it was still an issue with the method I use to otherwise stabilize my trailer. Otherwise my method prevents any noticeable movement whatsoever for the rest of the trailer.

Heck for one night stops I don't use anything except to take a little wt off the hitch and just accept the movement for those nites when I'm traveling to my ultimate destination.

As I said a big plus for us is we now don't have "WEE ONES" running/jumping/etc. ... it's just use two slower moving ole folks now.

Larry