bka0721 wrote:
I had vintage cars in my shop for many years. One of the first things I did when I built my house was run a short run from my laundry room (just inside from the garage to house door) for a Hot water faucet. In a previous house I just hooked a hose to the laundry tub sink and swore I would do it different on any house I built. I made that work and was more than happy and found many more uses for appreciating the effort to plumb this 4 ft. run.
Also, be sure to pay attention to other trades when they drill holes through joists and beams for installing their parts. While the stub wall supports the beam, it is always preferred not to intrude on the lower/bottom third of a beam or joist. When looking at the specifications of wood and strengths this is where 90% of it's strength is. A wood beam and joist is really elastic and needs to stretch. When this ability is removed, the span is reduce to the area where the intrusion has occurred to the point of support (Wall/Post/Beam) It is always scary when walking into ones basement where someone has notched a joist to raise a pipe and then remember there is a Baby Grand Piano in the room right above!
Always a pleasure seeing your project and now, the finishing details.
b
Good to hear from you Bryan.
When we pulled the siding off to access the water line, I was reminded that there was a cold AND a hot water line there. I had forgotten that there used to be a sink of some sort in that corner. That room was remodeled about 15 years ago. The water heater that would feed that line is on the other end of the house though, and we would have been adding another 50 ft. of line to it getting it to the garage sink, so using it wasn't going to be practical. My plans are to install a small electric water heater under the utility sink, and have the heating element on a switch so it's only on when needed.
Thanks for the tips regarding the hole drilling. I thought that hole for the gas line looked a little too low, but wasn't sure why other than possibly getting hit with a drywall screw when the ceiling is hung. Fortunately, the board they drilled the hole in is set into the notched 2x6's behind it, which are sitting on top of the laminated beam below it. Probably won't be many more holes drilled in the beams and joists going forward.
I'm getting estimates for the expanding foam insulation now. That stuff is about 2.0-2.5 times as much as fiberglass batts I'm finding out. I had no idea. I'm going to use it in the ceiling of the new living area and the upper bay garage ceiling at the minimum. Maybe in the walls of the living area, but not the garage walls.
:):)
