Well, I first thinking to start a few thread to ask a few question in specific section of this forum, then I decided to combine all my small questions/concern into a single thread since it's my first TT ever and I purchase it slightly used, I have a few technical questions, most will be very quick to answer like "yes it's normal and blablabla".As stated in my signature, my TT is a slightly used 2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 16BH. The former owner used the trailer like 6 times on campgrounds but the unit is still 3 years old.Question #1 : No 12V fridge...???? In my previous Rockwood pop-ups camper I got a 3-way fridge (12V, 120V, gas) before leaving home, I fill up the fridge with food, then switch the fridge on 12V when I'm travelling. When I reach campground (sometime after 5-6 hours travel), food is still cold and then I switch the fridge on 120V. Big surprise to discover that my new trailer only has a 2-way fridge (gas & 120V). Even the new 2014 still have 2-ways... So how do I keep my food cold while I'm traveling? Is it safe to open the gas burner when the trailer is in motion?Question #2 : Aluminium kinky roof, grime, black strikes.. Another big surpris is to see the aluminium roof kinky everywhere and where there's several spots where there's stagnant water after each rain (when trailer is levelled). So every rains the entire trailer is covered with brown/black strikes coming from the roof. I tried to clean the roof with a brush and car soap and even after that, there's still brown/black strikes all over the trailer after raining! Moreover the roof caulk is still in good shape (no leak, not dried), but it's all greenish/blackish... disgusting! What's the options?? Clean black strikes with bleach cleaner after each rain????!!!! Kinky roof is not an issue apparently because my father-in-law own a 2013 (1yr old) Sportsmen and his roof is kinkier than mine!Question #3 : Any suggestion to run speakers wire inside walls/roof to install exterior speakers? Cause my 16BH came with a interior sound-system from factory (Jensen radio with speaker switch) but no exterior speaker installed... very sad! Is there a way to run wires inside wall or roof inside a travel trailer or everything is pretty sealed with urethane foam?Question #4 : Propane smell around exterior tank, even when everything is closed. I'm just wondering if it's normal to have a slight propane smell around the front tanks (I have a dual 20 pounds system on mine). Even when tanks valve are closed, there's a slight smell because propane actually smell rotten eggs. I ran the soapy water test and don't see any leak. But in fact even with two tanks valve closed, there's still a slight smell. Is it normal?Thank you very much for your advices!!

while traveling many leave their frig running on propane. I for one do not. the RV guys like the RV Doctor and Rv 101 guys say no do not travel with the frig running. I use reusable ice packs in the frig to keep my food cold and fresh. when I get to can and hook up I place the ice packs in the freezer to refreeze.

old guy wrote:while traveling many leave their frig running on propane. I for one do not. the RV guys like the RV Doctor and Rv 101 guys say no do not travel with the frig running. :hMy advice is to read up on what those two guys actually say about this subject. RV Doctor/ Propane fridge........RV 101 /propane appliancesProbably 90% of RVers run their fridges on propane while traveling. Former concerns associated with potential propane-associated fires have largely been remediated by improvements in tank design/fitment. I think it prudent to turn fridge/any other gas appliances off when refueling the tow vehicle. There's a discussion going on around that point at this link.That said:If you really want to run your fridge off 12v while traveling, an inverter aboard the trailer will change 12v to 120v power usable by the fridge.

re: propane odor, you shouldn't have any odor. I had the same issue on my last trailer. The smell was inconsistent and I couldn't find the leak using soap and water on all connections. It turned out the propane lines between the tank and the three-way valve were bad where the connectors crimped on. They didn't leak all the time...just occasionally. I found it when I bumped one and it leaked a little burst of propane. I replaced those lines and my problem was solved.

1) I run propane while traveling which still needs 12V for the controller/electronics.2)Gutter extensions is all I use. Still get some black streaks, but my roof is curved to help.3) Skip the exterior speakers and anything to do with the Jenson Radio. Most $50 portable bluetooth speakers will outperform the crappy sound systems our TTS have. Something like this and you can control it from your smartphone sitting at the campfire.4) You have a leak somewhere. Probably at the switch or connector to tanks. It is not normal.

Francesca Knowles wrote:If you really want to run your fridge off 12v while traveling, an inverter aboard the trailer will change 12v to 120v power usable by the fridge.Nice! I was just thinking about this option! But I want to figure out a sweet permanent inverter installation maybe with an fixed AC A+B selector switch somewhere that can switch easily the fridge from the 12V inverter to the 120V power.According to the Norcold website, the 2.7 cu-ft N302 fridge draw 1.5 amps @ 120 volts. If I'm right this mean a 180 watts load. So a small 300W inverter will do the trick easily. I also assume a 180 watts power draw will not empty the marine battery too quick in the case I turn off the towing vehicle for an hour or so (at the grocery for example).I didn't remove the bottom exterior venting panel behind my fridge yet, but I assume the fridge are not "hard wired" to the 120V circuit? It's probably connected using a standard 120V household wall outlet located behind the venting panel like in my previous pop-ups camper?

First TT owner... have a few questions! | Good Sam Community

23 Replies

vlopddap
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014
Just checked on the Norcold N302 and the 120V connection is a household plug. It's not easily reachable since space is limited, but I may disconnect it.
PAThwacker
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
The existing 4 speaker (interior/exterior) suck on our HTT. I roll with a sirus sportster 5 boombox. crystal clear satelite radio (120w, 12vt, or batteries).
Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
vlopddap wrote:
Thank for all your comment BTW!

But what about the kinked aluminium roof and the black strikes everywhere... even if it's not unsafe properly speaking, but it's very annoying because every time I wash my TT, after the next rain the black strikes are back. Even if I washed the roof to remove dirt, grime and mildew.

O.K., since that word keeps comin' up, I finally have to tell ya: I think you mean " stripes"- n'est pas? ;)

I don't have the same problem due to different trailer design, but the idea posted earlier about gutters sounds like a good one. Also, a good coat of wax on the sides might make the stripes easier to remove- just hose off?

Per isolating solenoid, now that I understand your access problem:

I can't think of any reason why you can't mount one at the trailer end of the charging line.

BUT

Are we sure sure sure that Chrysler didn't put one in with all the rest of the tow package??? You might check for "juice" at that pole when the vehicle's turned off. I might have made a problem where none exists, and believe you me it wouldn't be the first time!
vlopddap
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
Thank for all your comment BTW!

But what about the kinked aluminium roof and the black strikes everywhere... even if it's not unsafe properly speaking, but it's very annoying because every time I wash my TT, after the next rain the black strikes are back. Even if I washed the roof to remove dirt, grime and mildew.
vlopddap
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
Francesca Knowles wrote:
I'm a little unclear here- the solenoid would be mounted at the car end of the charging line, up front under the tug's hood. Are you saying that there's no charging line from the tow vehicle to the trailer? Is there an electric brake line, now that I think about it?

I ask because I think factory wiring on the Caravan was only for trailer lights, and would use a simple four flat connector. Any other functions would have to have been added on, and use a six or, more commonly, a seven pole connector. Could be wrong about that, depending on year/model.

Don't be sorry because maybe I'm unclear myself!! :B

My 2014 Caravan truly come with a 7 pins harness from factory with an electric brake output, only the brake controller is not included from factory, but the van is pre-wired to install it (blue brake wires already inside the vehicle under the dash). What I mean is the main power wire that goes to the trailer 7 pins connector is not accessible inside my Caravan engine bay. The trailer power wire that goes from the towing vehicle engine bay to the 7-pins is integrated inside the vehicle main power harness. I can probably found which wire goes to the 7-pins plug behind, but it's a P.I.T.A. to mess with the factory wires because everything is sealed with electrical tape and wire loom!

In my previous vehicle I had a brake controller wiring I add myself. All wires were easily visible inside engine bay since they were hooked directly on the battery positive terminal using circuit breaker. But in my van it's all part of the vehicle main fuse box.
Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
vlopddap wrote:
Francesca Knowles wrote:
That was going to be my SECOND suggestion, but I forgot. Simple solution for the time being, eh? And a good way to find out how/if it all works.

If you don't already have one, I'd also recommend an isolating solenoid between the tug and the trailer battery. Hard to say how long it might take for the fridge running to draw both batteries down when parked en route, but with the isolator at least you'll know you have enough juice to start the tug and begin recharging.

Thank you Francesca for this great advice. I wasn't aware this kind of device even exist! I understand the basics of the device, but I don't know how to install it since my trailer wiring is not aftermarket on my Dodge Caravan, it's the factory trailer socket wiring and I have no accessible wires going to the battery since everything is connected into the vehicle fuse-box.

Installation of the solenoid look pretty straight forward (in/out/ignition), but since the wiring for the trailer socket are not easily accessible into my van engine compartment I'm not sure how easy it will be. ;)

Maybe for now the easiest is to figure out the actual power drain of the fridge through the 12V inverter to determine a "safe period" when parked. It's probably easy to calculate since there's probably a mathematical formula for that. I just don't know it yet!! :-)

I can also simply pull out the trailer plug when parked for a few hours! LOL

I'm a little unclear here- the solenoid would be mounted at the car end of the charging line, up front under the tug's hood. Are you saying that there's no charging line from the tow vehicle to the trailer? Is there an electric brake line, now that I think about it?

I ask because I think factory wiring on the Caravan was only for trailer lights, and would use a simple four flat connector. Any other functions would have to have been added on, and use a six or, more commonly, a seven pole connector. Could be wrong about that, depending on year/model.
vlopddap
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
Francesca Knowles wrote:
That was going to be my SECOND suggestion, but I forgot. Simple solution for the time being, eh? And a good way to find out how/if it all works.

If you don't already have one, I'd also recommend an isolating solenoid between the tug and the trailer battery. Hard to say how long it might take for the fridge running to draw both batteries down when parked en route, but with the isolator at least you'll know you have enough juice to start the tug and begin recharging.

Thank you Francesca for this great advice. I wasn't aware this kind of device even exist! I understand the basics of the device, but I don't know how to install it since my trailer wiring is not aftermarket on my Dodge Caravan, it's the factory trailer socket wiring and I have no accessible wires going to the battery since everything is connected into the vehicle fuse-box.

Installation of the solenoid look pretty straight forward (in/out/ignition), but since the wiring for the trailer socket are not easily accessible into my van engine compartment I'm not sure how easy it will be. ;)

Maybe for now the easiest is to figure out the actual power drain of the fridge through the 12V inverter to determine a "safe period" when parked. It's probably easy to calculate since there's probably a mathematical formula for that. I just don't know it yet!! :-)

I can also simply pull out the trailer plug when parked for a few hours! LOL
Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
vlopddap wrote:
Francesca Knowles wrote:
My Totally Non-Techie Advice is to leave the original wiring alone. Don't want to mess anything up, such as the existing 12v feed to the fridge that powers the thermostat when on propane.

Just feed from the inverter to your 120v system. The fridge will operate off the 120v outlet it's already plugged into.

I'm gonna simply disconnect the 120V plug from the RV circuit and plug it into the 12V inverter output for now

:B

That was going to be my SECOND suggestion, but I forgot. Simple solution for the time being, eh? And a good way to find out how/if it all works.

If you don't already have one, I'd also recommend an isolating solenoid between the tug and the trailer battery. Hard to say how long it might take for the fridge running to draw both batteries down when parked en route, but with the isolator at least you'll know you have enough juice to start the tug and begin recharging.
westend
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
vlopddap wrote:
westend wrote:
You will need a larger inverter than 300W to run the fridge, probably 1000W. You need one large enough to overcome the lock rotor draw when the fridge first starts. The LRD may be listed on the rating plate of the fridge.
Also, if you wish to power all the receptacles, you'll need to either plug the shore power cord into the inverter and shut off the 12V converter or install a transfer switch and power just what you need when on inverter.

I think you miss the part where I told I have a Norcold N302 2.7 cu-ft fridge which is a gas absorption fridge and it doesn't have a compressor. Household fridge requiert a 1200W+ current to spin up the compressor, but since gas absorption fridge use a small heating element to boil coolant, it requiert small power.

Yes, sorry, I see that now, the coffee has worn off. :o
vlopddap
Explorer
Jun 11, 2014
westend wrote:
You will need a larger inverter than 300W to run the fridge, probably 1000W. You need one large enough to overcome the lock rotor draw when the fridge first starts. The LRD may be listed on the rating plate of the fridge.
Also, if you wish to power all the receptacles, you'll need to either plug the shore power cord into the inverter and shut off the 12V converter or install a transfer switch and power just what you need when on inverter.

I think you miss the part where I told I have a Norcold N302 2.7 cu-ft fridge which is a gas absorption fridge and it doesn't have a compressor. Household fridge requiert a 1200W+ current to spin up the compressor, but since gas absorption fridge use a small heating element to boil coolant, it requiert small power.

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First TT owner... have a few questions!

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