Ford Excursion/SD brake recommendations
Hello, I am on my 2nd Ex and the brakes are going to get replaced soon (pulls to the left). With my first EX I went with factory OEM pads/rotors because it was at the dealership and I although I re...
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So difficult my 13 year old does them. In other words, very easy.
All you need is the following.
Also, note that according to Ford service manual, you only need to have the rotors turned if they are warped or grooved. Otherwise just replace the pads. I'll explain how to replace the rotor too, if you are installing slotted ones.
I have air tools so I'll tell you how to do this by hand.
Torque wrench for up to 150ft/lbs for wheels, or a tire shop near by.
1/2" socket set metric.
Floor jack
Jack stand for safety
Large C-clamp to compress the calipers.
Brake cleaner and some rags.
Break lug nuts loose on both front wheels.
I'll give example of drivers front.
Start the truck and turn the wheel to the right near full lock.
This will give easier access to bolts on the caliper.
Jack up the drivers side and place jack stand under axle for safety.
Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off
Using the large C-clamp put it so the screw portion touches the front side of the pad, the rear of the c-clamp will contact the back of the caliper body.
Screw the C-clamp in to force the caliper to slide towards you. This is basically compressing the caliper pistons. It is best to do two to four turns, wait a couple seconds then go again. If you just crank on it, the caliper pistons are strained.
Once the caliper pistons are compressed all the way.
Undo the two caliper mounting bolts, they are on the ears at each end of the caliper, 14mm maybe, I forget.
Once these are out remove the caliper and flip it upside down on top of the rotor, or hang it with a bungie from the shock tower.
You will now see to wire springs in the top of the pads.
Pull one side of the wire towards you to release the tension in the hole.
Once both are out, simply flip the top of the pad horizontal and pull the pad out.
New pads will come with metal anti rattle clips, the springs the pads physically sit on.
Grab your new pads and put anti squeal compound on the back of the pads, the part that touches the caliper, then put them in the caliper the way you took them out. I like to tilt them in, then flip it up. Once both are in, double check both are contacting the rotor then
DON'T FORGET THE TWO SPRING WIRES!! Install the spring wires.
place the caliper back on.
Now, lube the caliper mounting bolts and tighten it up.
Once the caliper is tightened down, get in the truck and press the brake pedal a few times to set the pistons against the pad.
Repeat this on the other side. You will spend maybe an hour, 30 minutes if you have air tools.
To replace the rotors and pads you first have to remove the caliper as above, then remove the caliper mounting bracket from the Knuckle on the axle. Once it is off you can slide the rotor off the hub.
FYI, on these trucks after installing the wheels, with the truck on the ground the wheels must be torqued to 150ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench get them tight as you can, then drive to a tire shop and have them verify the torque, they will usually do it for free.
All you need is the following.
Also, note that according to Ford service manual, you only need to have the rotors turned if they are warped or grooved. Otherwise just replace the pads. I'll explain how to replace the rotor too, if you are installing slotted ones.
I have air tools so I'll tell you how to do this by hand.
Torque wrench for up to 150ft/lbs for wheels, or a tire shop near by.
1/2" socket set metric.
Floor jack
Jack stand for safety
Large C-clamp to compress the calipers.
Brake cleaner and some rags.
Break lug nuts loose on both front wheels.
I'll give example of drivers front.
Start the truck and turn the wheel to the right near full lock.
This will give easier access to bolts on the caliper.
Jack up the drivers side and place jack stand under axle for safety.
Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off
Using the large C-clamp put it so the screw portion touches the front side of the pad, the rear of the c-clamp will contact the back of the caliper body.
Screw the C-clamp in to force the caliper to slide towards you. This is basically compressing the caliper pistons. It is best to do two to four turns, wait a couple seconds then go again. If you just crank on it, the caliper pistons are strained.
Once the caliper pistons are compressed all the way.
Undo the two caliper mounting bolts, they are on the ears at each end of the caliper, 14mm maybe, I forget.
Once these are out remove the caliper and flip it upside down on top of the rotor, or hang it with a bungie from the shock tower.
You will now see to wire springs in the top of the pads.
Pull one side of the wire towards you to release the tension in the hole.
Once both are out, simply flip the top of the pad horizontal and pull the pad out.
New pads will come with metal anti rattle clips, the springs the pads physically sit on.
Grab your new pads and put anti squeal compound on the back of the pads, the part that touches the caliper, then put them in the caliper the way you took them out. I like to tilt them in, then flip it up. Once both are in, double check both are contacting the rotor then
DON'T FORGET THE TWO SPRING WIRES!! Install the spring wires.
place the caliper back on.
Now, lube the caliper mounting bolts and tighten it up.
Once the caliper is tightened down, get in the truck and press the brake pedal a few times to set the pistons against the pad.
Repeat this on the other side. You will spend maybe an hour, 30 minutes if you have air tools.
To replace the rotors and pads you first have to remove the caliper as above, then remove the caliper mounting bracket from the Knuckle on the axle. Once it is off you can slide the rotor off the hub.
FYI, on these trucks after installing the wheels, with the truck on the ground the wheels must be torqued to 150ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench get them tight as you can, then drive to a tire shop and have them verify the torque, they will usually do it for free.
rowekmr wrote:
How difficult of a job was it to DIY? I normally have shops do my brakes but was interested in doing these?dodge guy wrote:
Yep. Power slots and hawk pads. And when doing the brakes be sure to lube the caliper slides and clean and lube the areas where the pads and hardware sit in the caliper brackets.
