Ok, just wanted to see if anyone with older non DSI fridges have an issue with it blowing out on the highway and what you did to fix it. I have a Dometic RM2510 that actualy works good and for the most part stays lit. if it is a gusty day at highway speeds it will blow out the pilot on a big wind gust. also it is more prevailant in the cooler wether when the pilot is at low flame. what I am wondering is if there is a way to put some sort of windscreen/baffel etc. with out aftecting natural airflow.thanksSteve

Has it always done that?Have you tried to clean the burner / pilot and chimney?

StirCrazy wrote:Ok, just wanted to see if anyone with older non DSI fridges have an issue with it blowing out on the highway and what you did to fix it. I have a Dometic RM2510 that actualy works good and for the most part stays lit. if it is a gusty day at highway speeds it will blow out the pilot on a big wind gust. also it is more prevailant in the cooler wether when the pilot is at low flame. what I am wondering is if there is a way to put some sort of windscreen/baffel etc. with out aftecting natural airflow.thanksSteveMine had the same problem. I taped off the lower louvers in the outside vent and that pretty much took care of the problem.

I had a new 1984 5th wheel trailer that a side wind while camped and even on the road would do that. I made a sheet metal baffle the size of the louvers in the fridge door. I made 6 small 1" X 1" wood blocks from a 1" X 4". Then siliconed the blocks between the baffle and and door louvers. Worked great for stopping direct airflow to the pilot light. Its been years but I think at one time some type of baffle was sold retail for that purpose. Might do a google on a fridge door baffle.

I taped the top vent. The bottom two are still open. Forgive me if my count is off on how many vents there are.

fridge blowing out | Good Sam Community

StirCrazy
Moderator
Apr 11, 2022
Chuck and Di wrote:
I spent a lot of time on this issue several years ago. The issue seemed to be caused more by the top of the chimney than the door at the back of the fridge. An air deflector in front of the chimney on the roof was the final solution. A furnace air filter taped to the inside of the rear door solved it about 80% - 90% without impacting cooling much. But every camper design is different, with different airflow patterns, so YMMV.

so I wonder if I just tape the front facing opening up top and see what happens if that would be good enough for a test. then if it works build a deflector or somthing more permenant that would only divert air while I am moving. I just find it weird that it only seams to happen when I am driving in gusty side winds or a rig passes the other way, but I can do 100kph in the mountians on a calm day and it stays going... or in the summe rwhen it is hot and the flame is at a higher setting it rarely blows out.

Steve
Chuck_and_Di
Explorer
Apr 11, 2022
I spent a lot of time on this issue several years ago. The issue seemed to be caused more by the top of the chimney than the door at the back of the fridge. An air deflector in front of the chimney on the roof was the final solution. A furnace air filter taped to the inside of the rear door solved it about 80% - 90% without impacting cooling much. But every camper design is different, with different airflow patterns, so YMMV.
covered_wagon
Explorer
Apr 10, 2022
Mine kept blowing out too until I discovered some carbon build up on the burner tip and used a small toothbrush size wire brush to clean it up and all is well again. My fridge has never been on 12 volt mode since 03 except one time by mistake.
StirCrazy
Moderator
Apr 09, 2022
Seminoe Joe wrote:
I always understood it was unwise to drive with the propane going on a fridge? Is this not correct after all?

there is no issues with it, asside from limited areas , ferries, some tunnels. even if a line ruptures while your driving the old tanks the line will just disapte the propane in the wind. every owners manual I have had said to use the gas setting while your travleing so I don't know what to say. guess it depends on your comfort level, but how are you going to keep food cold/frozen on a 16 hour drive if you don't?

Steve
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Apr 09, 2022
Modern propane tanks shut off with sudden discharge - think broken pipe, etc.

Safer no doubt to turn off the propane. Even safer to not drive. I leave it on...
notsobigjoe
Nomad III
Apr 09, 2022
jimh406 wrote:
Seminoe Joe wrote:
I always understood it was unwise to drive with the propane going on a fridge? Is this not correct after all?

There have been lots of debates regarding propane being on or not. However, many of us have run with our propane fridges on for decades. YMMV. If you are on a ferry or tunnel, and the rules say turn off the propane, that's a different issue ... Turn it off.

I do not know if it is unsafe and with that said I have never run anything but the 12 volt system for the fridge while driving. sometimes for days at a time. I have not upgraded any wiring on both sides of the lance plug and I have never once had a problem with both my coachman ranger and my 1181. Many, many times I camped overnight with the 12volt system on with no shore power and still never had a problem. Just some input to the conversation.
jimh406
Explorer III
Apr 08, 2022
Seminoe Joe wrote:
I always understood it was unwise to drive with the propane going on a fridge? Is this not correct after all?

There have been lots of debates regarding propane being on or not. However, many of us have run with our propane fridges on for decades. YMMV. If you are on a ferry or tunnel, and the rules say turn off the propane, that's a different issue ... Turn it off.
Seminoe_Joe
Explorer II
Apr 08, 2022
I always understood it was unwise to drive with the propane going on a fridge? Is this not correct after all?
JoeChiOhki
Explorer II
Apr 08, 2022
I have a pre-electronics anything rebranded Dometic in my vintage campers. I tried a number of things to try and solve the blow out issue from cross winds. I later figured out it was basically going under the roof vent and forcing air back down the back of the fridge blowing it out on my first one.

Since there wasn't a really good fix for that while driving (And I tried all of them, including making sure it wasn't a carbon issue on the thermocouple bulb), I ended up upgrading my charge wiring to 4 gauge from the alternator and into the main electrical system of the camper and setup a manual 2-way dual pole switch that allowed me to swap several outlets in the camper to running off a 400 watt inverter and ran the fridge off its 110volt element going down the road. Unit stayed good and cold and no more blow outs or burner to remember to turn off and on at every fuel stop.

On my second vintage unit, I replicated this, but setup an auto changeover mechanism to facilitate the 110 volt side instead of a manual switch.

The gas burner gets used now when dry camping and the camper is not in transit as it stays lit perfectly fine without the vehicle moving.
StirCrazy
Moderator
Apr 08, 2022
StirCrazy wrote:
joerg68 wrote:
Has it always done that?
Have you tried to clean the burner / pilot and chimney?

ya it has always done that. everything has been cleaned right up and the fridge works awsome other wise. it seams to be at highway speed in windy conditions, so i think its when the wind gusts are hitting it just right.

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